Category: Watch Guides

What do we mean by a ‘Full Set’?

Posted on by Card Holder Name

What do we mean by a ‘Full Set’?

Apart from ‘Watch only’ which speaks for itself and ‘Head only’ (just the body of the watch with no bracelet or strap) there are a few different states in which you can buy your dream watch. I thought it might be useful to clarify the details here.

With Box

Just the watch and its box, nothing else. Having said that not any old box will do, it has to be the correct box for the watch otherwise it’s just ‘Watch Only’ with something to keep it in.

Box & Accessories

This is the watch, its correct box(es) and some bits and bobs that are correct for the watch.

Box & Paper (B&P)

The watch, the right boxes and its original papers (or card). As with the box thing only the correct original manufacturer’s papers will do. Service papers or a seller’s warranty just isn’t the same thing and it doesn’t count as B&P.

Full Set

Here’s where it gets interesting because this set includes everything that could reasonably have come with the watch from new. Not everything that could possibly have come with it but things that normally did in most cases. You’ll see what I mean when we get to ‘Full Set Plus’. In the past, when a watch was first sold by the Authorised Dealer the choice of which boxes and accessories are supplied is really down to the whim of the salesperson. More details on this phenomenon are available here. These days things are packaged by the manufacturers in such a way that all parts usually go with the watch.

As an example, we’ll use a Rolex sports model because they come from the factory with LOADS of stuff compared to some other manufacturers. A sports Rolex Full Set comes with:

  • Both boxes
  • Papers
  • Papers wallet
  • Red Chrono Seal
  • Green serial number tag (not necessarily with the serial number intact)
  • Your Rolex Oyster booklet
  • Model booklet
  • Chrono translation / service centre booklet

Something very special

As well as the standard accessories that form part of the Full Set, sometimes a watch will come with extras which were either rarely issued with the watch when it was new or usually not kept. It’s often unreasonable to expect these things as a matter of course so when they are available.

Examples include:

  • Calendar
  • Rolex Anchor
  • Original sales receipt
  • Service receipts
  • Bezel protector
  • Branded polishing cloth

If you have a look through the images at the top of the screen then you can see some examples of the different states.

As we’ve often said, there are very rarely any absolutes in the world of luxury watches so this article should be taken as a guide only rather than absolute fact, but hopefully it’s helpful. If you have any questions or comments then please feel free to get in touch.

BEST fit – Wrist Measuring Guide

Posted on by Card Holder Name

Once you have chosen your watch, it’s of THE utmost importance that the bracelet fits! Our wrist measuring guide will make sure your Oakleigh sourced watch fits you straight out of the box. Comfort, style, and safety should be your key priorities.

Scan your eyes down the page for our expert advice on how to measure your wrist, all designed to help your watch withstand the test of time.

The easiest way to measure your wrist size is with a flexible measuring tape. If you don’t have access to a measuring tape, you can improvise with a narrow piece of paper or a piece of string and a standard ruler.

Ps. Most watch strap measurements are given in millimetres.

Wrist Measuring Guide – 4 Top Tips

  1. Because your body retains water throughout the day, your wrist is going to be a little larger at the end of the day as opposed to the beginning.
  2. Your wrist is also going to be slightly larger when your hand and palm are open as the wrist bone adjusts when you make this movement.
  3. It will also be a little larger when you’re warm than it is when you’re cold
  4. You will need to consider your preference when it comes to where you like to wear your watch on your wrist and measure that section accordingly. Also give a little thought to whether you like it to be snug or with a little movement.

Let’s get started …..

Wrist Measuring Guide Step one:

Measuring tape Method

With your palm open and the underside of your wrist facing up, take your tailor’s tape, place the end with the metal tip in the centre of your wrist, and pull the tape over your wrist till it fits the way you would want your watch to.

Line up the tip of the metal with the measurement that sits the closest to the tape. You may find it most comfortable to loop the tape, slide it over your wrist and then pull the tape down to the metal tip. Write this measurement down in millimetres.

Paper or String Method

If you do not have a measuring tape, improvise with a thin piece of paper or string. Wrap the paper or string around your wrist as above and mark with a pen or marker where the two pieces overlap. Then take your piece of paper or string and measure with a ruler.

Wrist Measuring Guide Step two:

Share with us your watch measurement in the notes box on the shopping cart form. We are more than happy to adjust Oakleigh preowned watches to fit your wrist.

Many watch bracelets seem to come from the factory with far too many links for a normal wrist – if your watch is preowned, it’s likely that when we bought it, the excess links that were removed initially will have become lost. Rather than adding to your cost by supplying extra links that you don’t need, we just make sure that all of our watches fit a normal to large size wrist – for instance a sports Rolex will fit a wrist of around 20cm or 8 inches.

Some of our watches will come with additional links which is great especially if you need the strap increased in size. However, if not, and your wrist is over 20cm, we can often supply additional links – these vary in cost depending on the brand and the material but a typical stainless steel link for a Rolex or Omega will be between £50 and £75.

If you are purchasing a preowned watch from us on a leather or Nato strap, for the best fit, you should add an extra 2-2.5 centimetres to your wrist measurement.

If you are interested in an Oakleigh preowned watch on a leather or Nato strap, while we can’t adjust the strap to fit, you can email your wrist measurement and the watch you are interested in to us via our Contact Us enquires box and we can certainly double check the size.

Investment Watches – An Expert Guide

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When considering investment watches, there are some vital points to consider, and we will be discussing the most important in this article. This is by no means a complete guide – as buying a watch as an investment for yourself or as an investment gift, can be complex. However, we’re going to start with the most important question of Supply and Demand.

I must begin by saying that what follows is only my opinion – I might be right and I might be wrong. However, over the last 20 years I have been right quite a lot.

Supply & Demand – Key Considerations

As with any commodity, the perceived value of a watch is based partly on the price of its component parts, cost of manufacture, R&D, shipping etc. But and perhaps just as important is the perception of what a potential customer is prepared to pay for it.

The cost of component parts and manufacture of a watch is relatively small when compared to its perceived value. There’s only so much you can charge for an hour of labour or an ounce of gold or stainless steel.

On the other hand, what somebody is prepared to pay for something is an entirely different, and virtually limitless, thing.

The Paul Newman Daytona

 

In 1968, the Paul Newman Daytona had a retail price of $215. Made of steel, with Rolex movement – there’s only so much that Rolex could charge for those component parts. However, when valuing a watch like this in the 21stCentury you must consider that it’s one-of-a-kind.

It’s very probably the most famous wristwatch in the world, and that some watch collectors out there have a LOT of money. When Phillips auctioneers sold this watch in 2017 (49 years later) its ‘real’ value was established at $17.8m – I wouldn’t have been surprised if it made $100 million. Why? Because of the basic economic principle of ‘Supply and Demand’ and the first thing that you should consider when you’re buying a watch for investment.

New ‘v’ Discontinued Investment Watches

To avoid one of the biggest risks in watch investing you should only ever invest in discontinued watches. While it is entirely possible that current watches can increase in value – we’ve seen this significantly over the last seven years with Rolex, it does come with an inherent risk that doesn’t exist with discontinued references.

While supply for current Rolex models is currently low and demand is high, this can change very quickly because neither of these things are fixed..

Rolex case study

Rolex for example have the capacity to manufacture significantly more watches than they currently do, they just don’t want to so right now.

If Rolex, decide tomorrow to manufacture 50,000 more Daytonas a year then the Daytona will suddenly become far more available at retail price. Supply will increase and therefore the pre-owned value will fall. In this case the drop would be 75%…

On the other hand, if your money is invested in a discontinued watch, the supply level is fixed at an all time maximum and the older the watch gets and the better its condition the smaller levels of supply are.

Which Watches Make a Good Investment?

These days, it’s become a ‘thing’ for people to buy a new Rolex and keep it in perfect unworn condition as a financial investment for the future. If you ask me to find you a totally unworn Hulk, Batman, or Root Beer, or maybe an unworn Patek Philippe 5711, I can do so quite easily. The cost will be very high, but I can get you one within a few days.

If on the other hand you asked me to find you an unworn 1968 1675 GMT Master II, it would be virtually impossible and that’s because nobody ever used to keep them like that. They bought them, threw away the papers, boxes and booklets and wore them as Mr Wilsdorf intended. This makes a watch like that extremely rare with very low levels of supply and among collectors, demand for such a watch would be massive. Most importantly, the level of supply will never ever increase as they’ve already made all of the 1675’s, they are going to and there will be no more perfect ones. Ever.

There are of course other things to consider when thinking about how supply affects future value, but this is a major one.

Watches as Investment Gifts

Buying a pre-owned luxury watch as a gift for a special person on a special occasion can make the perfect present. As well as being incredibly sentimental, it can also be the perfect investment gift.

Birth year models make particularly good investment watches. We have many customers who plan ahead for their children’s significant birthdays or important life moments such as graduation or wedding.

Investing in watches has particular tax benefits. In the UK any gifts, including watches, made more than seven years before death are not liable for inheritance tax. Therefore gifting a luxury watch is an excellent way to pass down wealth, with the expectation that the value of the watch will continue to climb post purchase.

Put simply – it’s the gift that keeps on giving!

Demand & Desirability

Having covered the supply side of things, we must now consider demand.

Just because something is rare and in short supply that doesn’t make it a good investment. There must be a demand for it as well.

Look at it this way, if you were going to buy a car but you were going to keep it forever and never worry about having to sell it, you could order it in whatever colour you wanted. If you want a pink Aston Martin, go for it, why not? (I don’t know if Aston would paint you one that colour, but you can certainly get it painted afterwards).

Would that be a good idea if you were going to keep the car for say two years and then try and sell it? Clearly not because you could be one of only two people in England who wants a pink Aston Martin and when the time comes to sell it you’ve got to find the other one. Plus, he or she is going to be in a strong negotiating position!

When it comes to investment watches, you need to find something that is desirable now and is likely to be so for the foreseeable future. If you’re clever you can find something that no-one wants now but that everyone will love in the future, but without a crystal ball that’s kind of tricky. So, my top two tips …

  • Always go for a watch with the widest appeal and the most limited supply.
  • If it’s purely for investment purposes, buy the very best example you can find. After all you don’t have to worry about damaging it if it’s only going to sit in your safe.

The Perfect Investment Watch

For me the best balance is in finding a watch that you love and wear and which will still increase in value. You may not get the same return financially as with a Safe Queen, but your investment will be repaid simultaneously in other ways. I would rather have a less than perfect watch that I can wear daily, and which will make me 50% in 10 years that I would have one that has to sit in the back of the safe and which will make me 70%.

Of course, if you spread your risk with a box full of great watches, all of which you can wear on a rotation basis and all of which are steadily increasing in value, then that is something of an astute watch lover’s dream.

Visit our Oakleigh Collection & Alderleigh Collection for some great investment watches to buy today.

 

What is happening with Rolex pricing?

Posted on by Card Holder Name

Anyone with half an eye on watch values will know that Rolex pricing has been unstable over the last six months and some values have fallen very sharply. I’m delighted to say that, as we turn the corner into 2023, things seem to have stabilised in the luxury watch market, and a degree of normality has returned.

So, what happened? What’s happening now, and what does this mean for the future?

What Happened?

Over the past few months, I’ve heard various terms bandied around in relation to the fall in prices – “crash” – “collapse” – “bubble burst” etc.

But what has actually happened?

Well, I think the last term “bubble burst “is the closest to the truth, because a crash or collapse would have affected everything significantly, and to be honest, that hasn’t been the case.

To explain what happened, I’m going to use our favourite brand, Rolex, as an illustration, although the principles apply to any luxury watch brand.

Over the past few years, a market has developed in the world of Rolex which was both unrealistic and unsustainable. It was based around the principle that Rolex pricing was rising quickly in the preowned market due to lack of supply of new watches by Rolex, and that this could continue ad infinitum. Hence, we saw the values of an unworn Hulk rise to £30,000, and a similar steel Daytona to £40,000 to name but two.

The two most extreme examples were the ….

  1. Tiffany blue Oyster Perpetual – a £5,000 watch that was selling at over £30,000.
  2. John Mayer Daytona – a £32,000 watch selling at £120,000.

Nothing wrong with that you say, if people are prepared to pay that kind of money, then what’s the problem? The problem is that this whole market completely ignored my favourite principle of watch investment – ‘Supply and Demand’

Supply & Demand

For the value of any asset to increase over time, demand must exceed supply, that is a basic economic principle. The higher the demand/supply ratio, the more prices will rise as people effectively fight over a relatively scarce commodity.

This is where it all went wrong. The bubble burst when people realised that they were paying ridiculously inflated prices for things that were just not that rare. If I log onto Chrono 24 this morning, I can see 67 unworn stainless-steel Rolex Daytona.

SIXITY SEVEN!!!

Bear in mind that an unworn watch is a commodity, they are all identical with nothing to distinguish one from another. That means that the only differentiating factor between them is the price, and when the tower begins to crumble, it’s a race to the bottom. The person with the cheapest one will sell it, so prices fall rapidly.

This leads to the questions – where are prices now and where are they going?

Where are we now?

Early in 2023, Rolex values seem broadly split into three categories;

Type 1

There are those watches that were massively over inflated until last year and whose values have taken a significant tumble. These are the commodity watches – current model (not discontinued) Daytona’s, Submariners etc. Watches that were selling at up to 3 to 4 times their current retail price and which have now fallen sharply.

Supply is very plentiful; demand is low because people are still not sure whether the price will fall further and in most cases these watches lost at least 30% of their value.

Type 2

Non-commodity watches are superb examples of discontinued, popular references. Things that are genuinely in short supply, and for which there is still a high demand. For example, we currently have in stock a fully stickered example of a 2008 Rolex 16600 Sea Dweller and it is the only one currently for sale in Europe. Compare that to the 67 Daytonas in the UK alone and you can see how the value of one will be more stable than the other. Prices of these watches have dipped about 5-10%.

Type 3

The third category is like the second but refers to watches that for some inexplicable reason have fallen in value more than seems logical or in any way necessary. The classic Rolex Explorer is a great example. These were selling at up to £8000 until relatively recently and were heavily tipped to be a £10,000 watch. Prices on these have fallen sharply and you can now buy an excellent example for a little over £6,000. There is no reason why this price should have fallen that much.

Where are prices going in the short-term?

If we return to our three catergories of watches.

Type 1

Because of the supply and demand situation with current model Rolex watches, there is really very little prospect of the really over inflated values recovering fully any time soon, if ever.

Type 2

The value of great examples of most discontinued Sports Rolex has taken a bit of a dip. They are down 5 to 10%, and I’m sure that they will recover relatively quickly and then continue to steadily develop.

Type 3

These watches have fallen further than they needed to, and I would predict that they will recover very quickly. In short, this is an excellent time to buy a 36mm Explorer if you can find a truly great one.

In Conclusion

While the luxury watch market and particularly Rolex pricing has been unstable, it is far from all bad news. If you follow the advice that we’ve always given, around buying the best quality, discontinued references that you can find, not only is your investment safe but it’s pretty sure to continue to grow.

We have plenty of examples in stock, visit our Collections Pages or get in touch if you need some more guidance.

 

Reasons to buy a TAG Heuer Formula 1

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Deciding whether to buy a TAG Heuer Formula 1 will depend on your personal preferences, needs, and budget. However, for those who are swayed by a good story and association, let’s start with a little bit of history.

Sporting Background

This brand’s connection to motorsports is long and rich and if your affinity to the sport is the same, then having a TAG Heuer Formula 1 on your wrist is ultimate kudos.

Uhrenmanufaktur Heuer AG ‘Heuer’ was founded in 1860 by Edouard Heuer in St-Imier, Switzerland. The brand has been connected with motorsport since Jack Heuer paid tribute to the legendary and dangerous Carrera Panamericana race in 1963 by launching the Heuer Carrera.

Heuer sponsored the Ferrari Formula 1 team between 1975 and 1978 and in 1986. The new TAG Heuer company began sponsoring McLaren’s F1 cars, and these days they’re working with Porsche.

As a result, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 was released and it is now one of the best known and most accessible of motorsport related TAG watches.

But could it be the watch for you?

7 Reasons why you might buy a Tag Heuer Formula 1

1. Quality and Craftsmanship: TAG Heuer is renowned for its high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. The Formula 1 collection is no exception, featuring Swiss-made movements and durable materials.

2. Heritage and Reputation: TAG Heuer has a rich history in the world of watchmaking, with a reputation for producing reliable and stylish timepieces. Owning a TAG Heuer watch, including the Formula 1 model, can really make you smile.

3. Sporty Design: The Formula 1 collection is known for its sporty and dynamic design, inspired by the adrenaline of Formula 1 racing. If you appreciate watches with a bold and athletic aesthetic, the Formula 1 might be a great fit for you.

4. Functionality: TAG Heuer Formula 1 watches often come with features designed for sports enthusiasts and professionals, such as chronograph functions, and tachymeter scales. These features add both practicality and versatility to the watch.

5. Variety: The Formula 1 collection offers a wide range of models to choose from, including different dial colours and designs, materials, and strap options. Whether you prefer a classic stainless steel bracelet or a vibrant silicone strap, there’s probably a Formula 1 watch that suits your style.

6. Resale Value: Following an initial depreciation, TAG Heuer watches tend to hold their value well over time. This makes a pre-owned Formula 1 a potentially good investment if you’re considering resale value in the future.

7. Brand Support and Warranty: TAG Heuer offer a five year warranty on their watches, giving you peace of mind knowing that your investment is protected.

Conclusion

Ultimately, whether a TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch is worth buying depends on your individual preferences, budget, and how well the watch aligns with your lifestyle and tastes.

Our watchmaker associates Michlmayr & Co are TAG Heuer certified and their checks add an extra level of security when you buy a pre owned TAG Heuer from Oakleigh Watches.

Visit our collection pages to see our current TAG Heuer watch stock.

Is my watch self winding?

Posted on by Card Holder Name

When buying or owning a luxury watch, we understand that you might feel a bit silly or naive asking the question – is this a self winding watch? But trust us, the answer isn’t that simple and therefore it is a great question.

 

In fact, as a professional watch trader I recommend this be one of the first questions you ask when buying a pre-owned luxury watch and/or if your new purchase suddenly stops working.

Ultimately the answer depends on what type of watch you’ve got. Broadly speaking, there are three types of watch movement: quartz, manual and automatic. So, let’s take them one at a time.

 

Plus, keep reading to the bottom where we have included a quick reference table of example watches under each type of movement.

 

Quartz Movement

The movement of a quartz watch is powered by a battery. It never needs to be wound up. It just runs efficiently and accurately until the battery dies and then you pop in another one and away you go. A quartz watch never needs winding. This is a not a self winding watch.

 

Manual Movement

 

 

This is a mechanical watch movement powered by a mainspring that must be wound by hand in the old-fashioned way. Probably the most famous of all hand wound watches is the Omega Speedmaster, which was chosen for NASA space missions because automatic movements don’t work in zero gravity.

 

Once fully wound, a Speedmaster will run for between 48 and 50 hours before it stops and needs to be wound again. Of course, there is no problem with winding the main spring in the meantime to keep it fully wound so that it never stops. Again – this is not a self winding watch.

 

Automatic Movement (Self Winding)

The first automatic movement was designed at the end of the 18th century and its design is usually attributed to Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet. Of course, as with many things horological, the glory was subsequently taken by Hans Wilsdorf’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual movement which was patented in 1931.

 

These days, most quality Swiss watch movements are automatic or self winding and this is considered to be the standard. A rotor is attached to the watches movement so that when you move your wrist, the rotor spins and winds the watch back up again by tightening the mainspring.

 

The amount of time that an automatic watch will run off the wrist before stopping is called the “power reserve“. The power reserve of most quality self winding watches these days is between 48 and 72 hours.

 

Any watchmakers who achieve more than this quite rightly considers it a significant feat so sometimes you will see a watch described as “8 Days” or maybe even “12 Days”. This refers to the fact that the particular watch has a power reserve far and away above the average.

 

Once the mainspring is fully charged, an automatic watch worn daily will run without stopping until the movement needs to be serviced.

 

Does this mean that an automatic watch never needs winding?

No, it doesn’t, and this is the not so simple bit.

 

When it first leaves the factory, it’s possible that the auto movement of the watch will work so efficiently that it will charge the main spring to its full power just based on the kinetic energy of the movement of your wrist. Once that watch becomes a few years old however, this becomes increasingly unlikely. It’s also unlikely when a watch sits unworn for an extended period of time.

 

We always recommend that if an automatic watch has stopped through lack of movement, the main spring should be fully charged through winding before its worn. This gives the automatic movement every opportunity to operate efficiently and as expected and keep your watch, running accurately.

 

How should I wind my watch?

 

 

The most important thing to remember when winding your watch is to take it off your wrist first. Winding your watch while you’re still wearing it puts undue pressure on the crown stem and can cause damage to the movement.

 

Then unscrew or pull out the crown to the winding position (you will feel the spring release) and wind it 40 to 50 times in a forward direction. On an automatic watch, you will not feel any increased resistance when winding, so just stop when you’ve reached the full amount. On a manual wind watch, you will feel the increased resistance from the tightening mainspring and when full resistance is reached, you won’t be able to wind it any further. Continuing to force the crown forwards once fully wound will damage your movement so a little empathy can be required.

 

If you’re wondering whether you should be using an automatic watch winder to save you all the trouble, our Guide to Watch Winders will be a useful read.

 

In Conclusion

Is my watch self winding or do I need to wind my watch? Check our handy quick reference tables below and if you’re not sure, don’t be afraid to ask.

 

Owning a luxury watch brings great pleasure and subsequently slight responsibility. Therefore, when choosing the right watch for you, think about the type of movement and commitment you’re prepared to make.

 

As well as following our watch winding advice, it’s a good idea to have your watch serviced by an authorized service centre for the brand or by the brand itself once every five years. During those years, the lubricants in the watch could have dried up. While it is serviced you can also ask to have scratches removed from the metal case or bracelet. However, if you value the originality of the watch, don’t let the service centre replace the dial or hands.

 

Oakleigh Watches is based at Michlmayr & Co the largest service agents for Rolex and Omega (among other brands) in Norfolk. With over 30 years’ experience, Simon Michlmayr and his team are more than qualified to look after all our pre-owned watch servicing and repairs.  Plus, all Oakleigh VIP members will receive a 15% discount on watch servicing.

 

Quick Reference Guide 

This list isn’t exhaustive, it’s just a guide to some of the more famous watches that carry each type of movement. If you are unsure, ask an expert. We’re always happy to help.

 

MANUAL MOVEMENT
Omega Speedmaster Professional
Rolex Daytona (pre-1988)
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso
Panerai Luminor
Panerai Radiomir
Grand Seiko Elegance
Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1
IWC Portofino
QUARTZ MOVEMENT
TAG Heuer Carrera
Patek Phillipe Twenty-Four
Cartier Panthere
Rolex Oysterquartz
Casio G Shock
Bullova Lunar Pilot
CWC G10
Longines Conquest
Breitling Endurance Pro
Cartier Santos
AUTOMATIC (SELF WINDING) MOVEMENT
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Heuer Monaco
Oris Aquis
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
Rolex Submariner
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Rolex GMT Master
Rolex Daytona (1988 – date)
Cartier Santos 41
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean

 

 

10 Tips on How to Spot a Fake Rolex

Posted on by Card Holder Name

Rolex is one of the most coveted luxury brands on the planet, known for quality, durability, style, and prestige. Such an aspirational timepiece comes with a hefty price tag and therefore it’s of no surprise that the business of fake Rolex’ has become very lucrative. Therefore, knowing how to Spot a Fake Rolex is crucial when making such a high value purchase.

These days, some fake Rolex’ are so good that they must be partially disassembled before they can be identified as counterfeit and can even fool the experts!

And trust us they’re good!

Most of the fake watches that we come across are pretty easy to spot with a trained eye but there are some – that could fool most experts under normal scrutiny.  And I’m not talking about across a room or even across a desk, I mean in your hand and with a loupe. Plus some very clever fakers have adopted a ‘two from one’ practice…

Imagine you have one real watch and one ‘super fake’.  The real one is worth say, £10,000 and the super fake is worth nothing.  They swap the movements so they now have two watches; A real case and bracelet that pass all tests and a movement that won’t be discovered until the back is removed, and a very good fake that might prompt you to open the caseback just to be sure… when you do, the movement is real so it must all be ok…

(Papers can be faked more easily than watches so they’re both ‘Full Sets’.)  They sell them both at ‘bargain prices’, say £8,000 each for a quick sale and they’ve turned £10K into £16K.

‘Caveat Emptor” as they say in Rome.

Here are our 10 tips on how to spot a fake Rolex:

1) Unauthorised Sellers

Buying a Rolex is a serious investment, whether for pleasure or business, it’s a lot of money to part with. Therefore, our most important piece of advice is – only buy a luxury watch from a trusted seller or dealer.

Trust is very important when buying a pre-owned Rolex and here my friend, Google is your best friend.

ALWAYS choose a trusted, legitimate/authorised seller over a random individual you find on the internet. There might be a slight increase in cost but that’s the price of reassurance.

Look at the dealer’s selling history and reviews – especially trusted review affiliations such as Trustpilot.

Buying via international watch selling platforms such as Chrono 24 and Watchfinder, are a good place to start as the due diligence has already been done on the sellers.

eBay has recently launched a luxury goods arm and we sell via this platform. However, we are vetted as a Trusted Seller and any watch over £2000 will be sent for eBay authentication. Note – you do not have this security with individual sellers and sites like eBay and Craigslist can be rife with fake Rolex from’ [email protected]’.

Buying online can be a minefield, especially if not from a reputable seller. Therefore, if you decide to go down this route, you absolutely need to see the watch before you part with any cash. Below are some more physical clues on how to spot fake Rolex watches.

2. Movement

Carefully open the back of the watch – a fake simply cannot match the craftsmanship and precision of a true Rolex calibre. Plus, each genuine movement will have “Rolex” engraved on it.

However, thanks to modern technology it is much harder to tell the difference, refer to our previous example of the “Super Fake”.

Another clue – if it’s a quartz movement, alarm bells should start ringing as all Rolex watches other than the Oysterquartz of the 1970’s to 1990’s have mechanical movements.

3. Seconds Hand

On a genuine Rolex, the ticks of the seconds hand are so smooth, it looks like it’s gliding. If there is any stutter – it could be a fake.  You can also try listening, a real Rolex will be silent.

Rolex has made a small number of battery-powered watches in the past. These were called ‘Oysterquartz’. Rolex has never made quartz versions of the Submariner, GMT-Master or other popular models.

4. Weight

Since 1989, Rolex has used the best steel on earth called “Oystersteel” (904L stainless steel), which is rust and corrosion-resistant and importantly – it’s heavy! If the watch you’re holding feels light, it was likely built with cheaper metal and is a fake.  The difference is subtle, but you can definitely feel it.

However, it gets a little tricky with older watches with Oyster bracelets from the 1980’s and earlier as these have hollow links made by stamping. These hollow bracelets are much lighter than the current range.  However, the ‘head’ of the watch should still be heavy and feel sturdy. Also, the bracelet end links on a pre-2000 sports Rolex are hollow and can feel a bit rattly after a few years wear so that’s not necessarily an indication of a low-quality replica.

5. The Crown

Even the crown on a Rolex will be identifiable by the craftmanship. Only the high-quality steel used by Rolex can hold the intricate details you find on a genuine Rolex watch. Therefore, a smooth, plain, or brushed over crown will be a sign it could be a fake Rolex.

6. Dial, Hands & Clasp

The most obvious tell is misspellings, however as we’ve already mentioned, these days fakes can be excellent.

A genuine Rolex will be perfect when made, and fake Rolexes will be much less refined. So, get the magnifying glass out and check the hands, hour markers, dial and clasp for uneven fonts, inconsistent spaces between the lettering/numbers and smudges.

Even the tiniest imperfection on a new Rolex dial is incredibly rare so if it isn’t absolutely perfect, it’s very probably dodgy.

It’s a good idea to have an official photo of the exact model you’re buying to compare.

7. Case Back

Most genuine Rolex case backs are smooth and rarely factory engraved or transparent.

Some exceptions are.

-Rolex Sea Dwellers that are engraved.
-Milgauss’ are engraved.
-Comex Submariners and Sea Dwellers are often engraved.
-Vintage lady Datejust models 6917, 69173, 69174 – engraved with ‘Stainless Steel’
-‘Registered Design’ Military watches …. but if you’re shopping for a 5514 then hopefully you know what you’re doing.
-Since 2023, some models such as the Daytona have had sapphire case backs

Of course, some people do have their watches personally engraved (we advise you not to, if you’re thinking of buying for investment), but this should be obvious by the engraved content.

8. Laser Etched Crystal

Time to get your magnifying glass out again!

Some Rolex watches produced from the early 2000’s onwards will have a tiny laser etched crown at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal. The precision of this detail has made it difficult for counterfeiters to replicate – so it can be a good sign of authenticity (or not).

But beware, while the presence of the etched crown should mean that the crystal is real, it doesn’t mean that everything is.  Also, not even Rolex can tell you which references from which years should have the etched crystal (I’ve asked several people on several occasions), so don’t rely on this particular element.

9. The Big Date

The cyclops (bump) over the date on many Rolex watches is part of the brand signature. Its purpose is to magnify the date by 2.5 times.

If the glass over the date is flat and/or doesn’t seem to magnify very well then, it’s highly likely be a fake Rolex.

As always there are exceptions and the 40mm Rolex Sea Dweller and Deepsea Sea Dweller do not have a cyclops lens, despite having a date function. (They couldn’t make a glue strong enough to stand the pressure until 2019)

10. Model & Serial Numbers

This is perhaps the best way to authenticate a Rolex watch. Briefly – every Rolex has a serial and model number which are deeply engraved and symmetrical, clear to read and even shine in the light at certain angles.

On the contrary, fake Rolex watches will have a stamp that appears a little messier. It will either look like several tiny dots or etchings and if acid etched it will have a sandy/grainy appearance.

For more information on checking serial numbers and Rolex serial number tables, read our comprehensive Guide to Understanding Watch Model and Serial numbers.

In Conclusion

You really need to know your stuff. Knowing how to spot a fake Rolex is a crucial part of the buying process. If in doubt, refer to point 1 – always buy through a trusted/authenticated pre-owned watch seller.

Oakleigh Watches’ office is based within S.Michlmayr & Co who have a Rolex certified watchmaker on the premises available to check all of our watches for authenticity.

We’d be happy to help and guide you through the process. Visit our collection pages for current stock and sign up to receive our regular newsletters and stock drops.

If you can’t find what you’re looking for, we also offer a Sourcing Service and are experts at finding your dream ‘genuine’ watch.

10 Years & 10 Lessons Learned

Posted on by Card Holder Name

We celebrated our 10-year anniversary on 1st of November 2023, and I was asked to reflect on what I’ve learned over the past 10 years, creating, developing and running Oakleigh Watches.

I think I can confidently say, after 10 years, I am a luxury watch expert. So, keeping with the ‘10’ based theme, here are 10 of the most important things that I’ve learnt running a successful business.

And …… because I couldn’t resist – 10 of my favourite watches from the past ten years.

 

1. Believe in yourself

I once overheard a conversation where someone asked when I was “going to stop messing around and get a proper job?” That was 10 years and £20m in watches ago. Just because they don’t believe in you, don’t let them knock yourself belief.

 

2. Customer service is everything

I’ve got into this business because I couldn’t find a watch seller who was interested in anything other than money or watches. I love both of those things, but without our customers, we would have neither so we must always remember that customer service is paramount.

 

3. Concentrate on the ‘doing’ not on the ‘winning’

To be honest, this is a phrase that has been in my mind for the past 35 years. What it really means is that if you do the absolute best that you can, every hour of every day then the end result will take care of itself.

 

4. Honesty is vital

It’s crucial to both buy well & sell well. Repeat customers are absolutely vital, so it’s important to do right by everybody, all the time. A quick buck can lead to an early demise. Remember to pay it forward.

 

5. There’s a wrist for (almost) every watch

We all make mistakes sometimes (even watch experts), but generally speaking, every good watch will find a home eventually.

 

6. Brand integrity is key

Somebody who I respect & like enormously once told me that I “inhabit my brand”. I think what they meant was that I believe in the brand of Oakleigh so deeply that I live and breathe it, and with that comes authenticity.

 

7. Enlist the help of experts

Understand what you do well and get other experts for everything else. No one is good at everything, so you should find somebody equally as talented in their field as you are in yours to do the things you can’t do. Never try and wing it because it will always end in tears.

 

8. Online and offline are as important as each other

The future of successful retail is the combination of a great website with personal service. Just because your website is good, doesn’t mean you don’t need to be able to back it up. If you get your SEO right, make your shop window reflect your values and back it up with great customer service you should be onto a good thing.

 

9. Do the right thing!

Own your mistakes and honour them – if you’re wrong, you’re wrong, so do everything you can to make it right as quickly as possible. Then you will have nothing to be ashamed of and will have earned the right to stand up for yourself when it’s right to.

 

10. Love what you do

Then it won’t feel like work, and your success will be all the sweeter.

If you want to know how it all started 10 years ago, visit our About Us page and watch our short video.

 

In Conclusion

So, there you go. It’s all very well learning these things, but of course even a ‘watch expert’ must apply them consistently as well. I’m sure that’s not something that I achieve 100% but it is my aim and I do my best.

If you’re reading this, I hope that you’ve experienced the benefit of some of these key things over the last 10 years, and you can rest assured that I will do my utmost to keep serving you for the next 10.

Visit our Collections Pages for our current stock or get in touch if you need some luxury watch expert advice.