Watch Guides Archives

Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?

Posted on July 27, 2024September 23, 2024 by Card Holder Name

“Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

This is a question that I am often asked by our clients. Of course what they are referring to is whether their watch is water resistant – will it leak and ruin the movement, dial and hands?

There are usually three areas that need to be considered when the water resistance of a watch is under examination;

the caseback
the glass
the crown

During testing, these three components are checked for condition and damage or corrosion. Next the seals fitted between the component and the case are inspected and often replaced. The watch is then pressure tested using a purpose built piece of equipment. When it passes – voila! Your watch is waterproof.

So yes, if it passes the test, you CAN go swimming in a luxury watch. But hang on, there’s another question that needs to be asked ……

“SHOULD I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

All the watches that we sell here at Oakleigh Watches are superb examples of their type and are all of course very valuable.

I can’t imagine a more hostile environment for a luxury watch than a beach with its salt and sand, or a swimming pool full of chlorine, steel and ceramic tiles. And that’s before you even mention the water! So our advice would be – “yes you can swim in a luxury watch but NO, you probably shouldn’t.”

If you’re at the pool or the beach – relax, forget about the time! Or, if you’re like me and feel a bit lost without something stylish on your wrist, switch your luxury time piece for a much more practical G-Shock!

Oakleigh Watches works alongside local Rolex and Omega service agents Michlmayr & Co. All of our luxury pre-owned watches are tested to ensure they are water resistant and comply to COSC spec. Some of our more vintage stock will not be water resistant and this will be made clear in the description.

Understanding Watch Model & Serial Numbers

Posted on July 26, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

Being able to read watch serial numbers can be an enormous help when buying a pre-owned luxury watch.

Something I get asked about a lot, mainly – what’s the difference between watch serial numbers and watch model numbers? Where do I find them? How do they date my watch? Usually as a precursor to – how much is my watch worth?

At the end of this article you will find Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts for Rolex & Omega.

Model Number ‘v’ Serial Number

They are two totally different things.

The model number might also be called the ‘reference number’ or ‘style number.’

Unlike the serial numbers that are unique to a watch, model numbers are shared across watches. In the case of Rolex, the model number will tell you which particular collection a watch belongs to and helps identify materials used on a particular Rolex.

Watch Serial Number Check – Why It’s So Important

The watch serial number will tell you the estimated date of production of a watch and help trace authenticity. Therefore when it comes to estimating the value of your watch or buying a pre-owned luxury watch, the serial number is the most important of the two.

Whether you’re trying to value your watch or just interested in its history, it’s always good to check the watch serial number maches the paperwork. In the past, many official watch dealers have given the wrong paperwork with the watch, unaware of the later significance this would have when it comes to value. It’s not until the customer or a family member comes to sell the watch many years later, they realise the dramatic effect this can have on the value of the watch.

A quick watch serial number check can also reveal if it has been stolen, or to autheticate whether is is genuine or counterfeit. If a model was first released in the 1980’s but has a watch serial numbers dating it to the 1970’s, it is very likely a fake.

However, with technology as it is, it is very wasy to fake watch serial numbers and papers. It’s worth doing an internet search as counterfeiters tend to use the same number for whole batches of copies. These may have already been identified as fakes by other watch lovers who have done a watch serial number check and reported it.

For brands such as Omega and Rolex, the serial number is also a way to keep track of a watch. A register of a watch’s service history helps the manufacturer to identify returning problems or indicate parts that might need replacing based on the age of the watch.

What do Model & Serial Numbers look like? 

This will vary between brands and for the purpose of this article, we’ve focused mainly on Omega & Rolex.

How do I find the Serial & Model Numbers?

If you have a Full Set, then the serial and model numbers will be on the paperwork – warranty card, certificate of authenticity, service records. If not, your next steps are ……

Rolex Model & Serial Numbers Check

Rolex is unique in that it etches the model and serial numbers between the watch lugs. You will need to remove the bracelet/strap to see it. The model number describes the materials used, the calibre and the type and colour of the bezel. It can be quickly used to find out whether it is an original Rolex or a fake by comparing it with data from trade publications and Rolex catalogues.

It’s easy to get the model number mixed up with the serial number on a Rolex. The model number is generally four, five or six digits long, whereas watch serial numbers can be up to eight digits long. The model number is engraved on the lugs at the 12 o’clock end.

Locating a Rolex Serial Number

If your Rolex was manufactured before 2007, the serial number will be located between the lugs at 6 o’clock (where the bracelet connects to the watch). Between 2008 -2010, Rolex decided to put the serial numbers on the 6 o’clock inner bezel (the thin band between the watch face and the outer casing – see above image)

To complicate things further, Rolex changed the way they produced serial numbers on three different occasions.

1927-1987: Every Rolex had a 5-6 digit serial number depending on the year. The higher the number the more recent the Rolex.
1987-2010: Rolex introduced a letter for each year which was followed by six digits. For example W00001 would have been the serial number for the first men’s Rolex watch made in 1984. For this brief period, the letter is the most important part, because it tells you approximately when your watch was made.
2010: Rolex serial numbers were randomised to eight digit codes. Making it impossible to track and date watches purely on serial numbers. Adding to the increased value of a Full Set!

Keep scrolling for our ‘Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts’ at the bottom of this article.

Omega PIC & Serial Numbers

Omega use serial numbers and refer to their model number as PIC Numbers (Product Identification Code).

The PIC number is used to identify the model, materials, functions and features of each watch. This can be found on the accompanying paperwork. However, Omega has changed systems over the years.

PIC Pre 1962: Simple alphanumeric code of two letters followed by four digits.
PIC 1962-2007: They used a Mapics system, consisting of two letters followed by either six or seven numbers.
PIC 1988: this ran concurrently with Mapics and featured an arrangement of eight numbers in three groups
PIC Now: PIC14 structure, with 14 digits in six groups.

Luckily, Omega serial numbers are less complicated as they are issued more or less chronologically. Therefore they can be checked against a production chart to get an approximate date of a watch. See our ‘Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts’ at the bottom of this article.

In 1894, Omega started using serial numbers with 1,000,000. Every watch since, has been given a seven or eight digit number, following on sequentially until around 2019, when they hit 99,999,999. However, as always, there are a few exceptions, keep reading.

In 2019, Omega followed the same route as Rolex and started using randomised eight digit numbers, making it near impossible to work out the date of watches without the paperwork.

If your watch doesn’t have the paperwork, don’t despair – you can order an ‘Extract from the Archives’ directly from Omega. This document will also reveal things like which country the watch originated and is a paid service offered by most luxury watch manufacturers.

Locating an Omega Serial Number

Alternatively, you can locate the number on the watch itself. Depending on the age of the watch, the main areas to check are – the movement, inside of the case back, outside of case back and underside of the lugs. From 1990 onwards, Omega watch serial numbers started to be etched onto the lugs or case back.

Much older models might have it engraved on one of the internal movement bridges or elsewhere inside the case back. Again – don’t be tempted to remove the back yourself, ask an expert and avoid damaging your potentially very valuable vintage watch.

I mentioned earlier that there are a few exceptions.

Despite being a fastidious industry, mass production of watches led to movements sometimes being assembled much earlier than the rest of the watch. So a newer model could well have a lower serial number than an older one. This is an industry wide exception, not just Omega.

Omega has been known to vary the position of their serial numbers on the same model type. So not finding a number where you’d expect, doesn’t automatically mean it’s a fake. You will need to check the other main areas as detailed above.

Finally, and a bit of a mystery to all, the Omega Speedmaster range has its own numbering system, refer to the ‘Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts’ below for more information.

Other Luxury Watch Brands & Serial Numbers

They all vary, but as with Omega, the main areas to check are the movement, inside of the case back, outside of case back and underside of the lugs.

In Conclusion

Because of discrepancies in manufacturing, watch serial sumbers should only be used as an approximation. If in doubt – ask an expert – ask us!

Rolex Serial Numbers

Rolex Serial Number	Year
20,000 – 40,000	1927 – 1937
40,000 – 200,000	1938 – 1942
200,000 – 300,000	1941 – 1944
300,000 – 500,000	1945 – 1946
500,000 – 620,000	1947 – 1948
620,000 – 700,000	1948 – 1950
700,000 – 725,000	1951
725,000 – 880,000	1952
880,000 – 999,000	1953
0 – 49,000	1954

In 1954, when Rolex reached 1 million serial numbers, they started again as follows.

Rolex Serial Number	Year
0 – 49,000	1954
50,000 – 150,000	1955
150,000 – 250,000	1956
250,000 – 350,000	1957
350,000 – 450,000	1958
450,000 – 550,000	1959
550,000 – 650,000	1960
650,000 – 755,000	1961
755,000 – 865,000	1962
865,000 – 1,000,000	1963
1,000,000 – 1,105,000	1964
1,105,000 – 1,275,000	1965
1,275,000 – 1,485,000	1966
1,485,000 – 1,710,000	1967
1,710,000 – 1,945,000	1968
1,945,000 – 2,240,000	1969
2,240,000 – 2, 590,000	1970
2,590,000 – 2,890,000	1971
2,890,000 – 3,200,000	1972
3,200,000 – 3,570,000	1973
3,570,000 – 3,865,000	1974
3,865,000 – 4,115,000	1975
4,115,000 – 4,260,000	1976
5,000,000 – 5,085,000	1976
5,085,000 – 5,430,000	1977
5,430,000 – 5,865,000	1978
5,865,000 – 6,205,000	1979
6,205,000 – 6,560,000	1980
6,560,000 – 7,130,000	1981
7,130,000 – 7,600,000	1982
7,600,000 – 8,375,000	1983
8,375,000 – 8,785,000	1984
8,785,000 – 9,155,000	1985
9,155,000 – 9,860,000	1986
9,860,000 – 9,900,000	1987

When they reached their 10,000,000’th serial number in 1987, they switched to Letter Prefix Serials, starting with R and followed by a six digit number. Confusingly, these did not run alphabetically, or start on the 1st January each year. Rather, they started at different points within the year, once all the serials had been used.

Letter Prefix	Year
R	1987 & 1988
L	1989
E	1990
X or N	1991
C	1992
S	1993 & 1994
W	1995
T	1996
U	1997 & 1998
A	1999
P or K	2000
K or Y	2001
Y	2002
F	2003, 2004 & 2005
D or Z	2006
M or Z	2007
M or V	2008
V	2009
G	2010

Omega Serial Numbers 1994 – 2008 (excluding Speedmasters)

Omega Serial Number	Year
1,000,000 – 1,999,999	1894
2,000,000 – 2,999,999	1902
3,000,000 – 3,999,999	1906
4,000,000 – 4,999,999	1910
5,000,000 – 5,999,999	1915
6,000,000 – 6,999,999	1923
7,000,000 – 7,999,999	1925
8,000,000 – 8,999,999	1934
9,000,000 – 9,999,999	1939
10,000,000 – 10,999,999	1944
11,000,000 – 11,999,999	1947
12,000,000 – 12,999,999	1950
13,000,000 – 13,999,999	1952
14,000,000 – 14,999,999	1954
15,000,000 – 15,999,999	1956
16,000,000 – 16,999,999	1958
17,000,000 – 17,999,999	1959
18,000,000 – 18,999,999	1961
19,000,000 – 19,999,999	1962
20,000,000 – 20,999,999	1963
21,000,000 – 21,999,999	1964
22,000,000 – 22,999,999	1965
23,000,000 – 23,999,999	1966
24,000,000 – 24,999,999	1966
25,000,000 – 25,999,999	1967
26,000,000 – 26,999,999	1968
27,000,000 – 27,999,999	1968
28,000,000 – 28,999,999	1969
29,000,000 – 29,999,999	1969
30,000,000 – 30,999,999	1969
31,000,000 – 31,999,999	1969
32,000,000 – 32,999,999	1970
33,000,000 – 33,999,999	1971
34,000,000 – 34,999,999	1972
35,000,000 – 35,999,999	1972
36,000,000 – 36,999,999	1973
37,000,000 – 37,999,999	1973
38,000,000 – 38,999,999	1974
39,000,000 – 39,999,999	1975
40,000,000 – 40,999,999	1977
41,000,000 – 41,999,999	1978
42,000,000 – 42,999,999	1979
43,000,000 – 43,999,999	1979
44,000,000 – 44,999,999	1980
45,000,000 – 45,999,999	1982
46,000,000 – 46,999,999	1984
47,000,000 – 47,999,999	1984
48,000,000 – 48,999,999	1985
49,000,000 – 49,999,999	1986
50,000,000 – 50,999,999	1986
51,000,000 – 51,999,999	1989
52,000,000 – 52,999,999	NOT USED
53,000,000 – 53,999,999	1991
54,000,000 – 54,999,999	1993
55,000,000 – 55,999,999	1995
56,000,000 – 56,999,999	1998
57,000,000 – 57,999,999	1998
58,000,000 – 58,999,999	1998
59,000,000 – 59,999,999	1998
60,000,000 – 60,999,999	1999
61,000,000 – 61,999,999	2000
62,000,000 – 62,999,999	2000
63,000,000 – 63,999,999	2000
64,000,000 – 64,999,999	2000
65,000,000 – 65,999,999	2001
66,000,000 – 66,999,999	2002
67,000,000 – 67,999,999	2002
68,000,000 – 68,999,999	2003
69,000,000 – 69,999,999	2003
70,000,000 – 70,999,999	2004
71,000,000 – 71,999,999	2004
72,000,000 – 72,999,999	2005
73,000,000 – 73,999,999	2005
74,000,000 – 74,999,999	2005
75,000,000 – 75,999,999	2005
76,000,000 – 76,999,999	2005
77,000,000 – 77,999,999	2005
78,000,000 – 78,999,999	2006
79,000,000 – 79,999,999	2006
80,000,000 – 80,999,999	2006
81,000,000 – 81,999,999	2007
82,000,000 – 82,999,999	2007
83,000,000 – 83,999,999	2007
84,000,000 – 84,999,999	2008

After 2008, Omega moved into it’s contemporary era and serial number is hard to locate. To find a date for a model with a serial number greater than 85,000,000, we advise you contact Omega directly. In 2019, Omega like Rolex started to used randomised eight digit numbers, making it near impossible to date watches without papers.

Omega Speedmaster Serial Numbers


14,000,000 – 14,999,999	1957
15,000,000 – 15,999,999	1958
16,000,000 – 16,999,999	1958 & 1959
17,000,000 – 17,999,999	1960
18,000,000 – 18,999,999	1961
19,000,000 – 19,999,999	1962
20,000,000 – 20,999,999	1963
22,000,000 – 22,999,999	1964 & 1965
23,000,000 – 23,999,999	1966
24,000,000 – 24,999,999	1967
26,000,000 – 26,999,999	1968
27,000,000 – 27,999,999	1969
28,000,000 – 28,999,999	1970 & 1971
31,000,000 – 31,999,999	1972
32,000,000 – 32,999,999	1973
33,000,000 – 33,999,999	1975
34,000,000 – 34,999,999	1976
35,000,000 – 35,999,999	1977
37,000,000 – 37,999,999	1978
38,000,000 – 38,999,999	1979
40,000,000 – 40,999,999	1980
42,000,000 – 42,999,999	1981
43,000,000 – 43,999,999	1982
44,000,000 – 44,999,999	1983
45,000,000 – 45,999,999	1984
46,000,000 – 46,999,999	1985
47,000,000 – 47,999,999	1986 – 1989
48,000,000 – 48,999,999	1990 – 1999
49,000,000 – 76,999,999	NOT USED – NEW SYSTEM INTRODUCED
77,000,000 +	1999+

It’s important to remember that these watch serial number look up charts are not compiled by the manufacturers (sadly), rather they are pulled together by watch enthusiasts. Together with the aforementioned nod to manufacturing discrepencies, please treat these charts as a guide – they are not 100% accurate.

It goes without saying, if you’re interested in dating/selling your watch, simply get in touch with us at Oakleigh Watches, we’re always happy to help.

“Does this vintage watch have the correct box?”

Posted on July 25, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

This is a common question when two people are discussing the purchase of a collectible watch:

Q: “Does this vintage watch have the correct box or is that the correct box for the watch?”

The perhaps impolite but nevertheless accurate response should be :

A: “I’m afraid you’re not asking the correct question and the proper question here is – Could this be the correct box for the watch?”

Then …

The fundamental mistake that we make when considering the boxes and ephemera of vintage watches is to apply today’s quality service standards to watch companies of the 1950s, 60s and 70s.

Nowadays Rolex, Tudor, (TAG) Heuer et cetera are very efficient when it comes to helping their dealers to supply the correct boxes and ephemera with their watches. Unfortunately, forty plus years ago they really weren’t very good at all and would ship the watches separately from boxes, tags, manuals et cetera. This meant that it was the responsibility of the retailer to put the correct package together for the customer and guess what? They weren’t very good at it either.

Picture the scene: it’s January 1972 and a customer has walked into a watch shop to buy a Rolex Submariner – a significant purchase at £270. The jeweller has had this watch in stock for a year and because it took a year from manufacture to get to the jeweller, it’s actually a late 1969 watch.

When the long-haired, flared trouser bedecked salesman brought out the white and green box that was supplied with the watch, his customer was disappointed. He had seen the nice brown one with the seahorse on it in the window and asked if he could have one of those instead please? This man was spending £270 on a watch and the salesman needed to make him happy so of course, he did what the customer asked.

The last thing that the salesman was thinking was that in 40 years time, this watch would be worth £10,000 and having the correct box would matter – and to some, I mean really matter.

Now …

So let’s fast forward those 40 years to a time when a vintage Rolex enthusiast is ready to invest the price of a small car in owning his grail watch, a ‘Red’ Submariner – maybe even a birth year one.

The first question the customer is going to ask is “what year is this watch ” is it 1969 as the serial number suggests or a 1972 as the papers suggest?

The second question the purchaser will ask is are the boxes and ephemera correct? As we know the full story of this particular ‘Red’, you and I are confident that this Full Set is exactly as it was when it left the store. However, our potential purchaser’s eyebrows may have cause to raise.

Surely it can’t be right that a 1969 watch should come in a Seahorse box which wasn’t even released until two years later? But we know differently…

In Conclusion

The moral of this story is that not only is this area of watch purchase a minefield, but also that there are very few absolute certainties and many possibilities.

Some things are clearly impossible and not correct. A watch with a 1975 serial number and papers dated 1973 would be wrong, as would a 1975 watch on a 1985 bracelet, but generally speaking if the differential is up to 2 or 3 years either way with bracelets, papers and ephemera then it’s absolutely fine.

So next time you’re looking at a watch like this, rather than asking “does this vintage watch have the correct box?” ask could this be the correct box for the watch. It will help you appreciate and understand the many possibilities and it may stop you from passing up a fantastic opportunity for the wrong reason.

And finally …

Oh and one final thing, you need to trust the person that you’re buying from.

If you’re considering spending thousands of pounds on a vintage watch from someone who’s opinion and honesty you doubt, then you should really consider buying one elsewhere.

If you would like support or guidance on any of the issues raised in this article then please email us through the website. You might also find our blog – What do we mean by a Full Set, useful reading.

“Is this watch too big for my wrist?”

Posted on July 25, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

As I go about my daily business, one question that quite often arises is “does my wrist look big in this watch?”

To be honest the question is more often “is this watch too big for my wrist?”

“Is it too big for me?”

It seems that, in an horological sense at least, both men and women are interested in whether size matters.

I’m very much of the opinion that with the exception of some things that are 50 mm plus, there’s really no such thing as a watch that is too big.

There are certainly some large watches out there that could be considered tasteless, but then there are few brands whose watches haven’t attracted and deserved that criticism at some point in their history, large or not.

Confidence & Courage

So if watches can’t be too big, and people can’t be considered ‘too small’, because that would just be wrong, then the beauty of a large timepiece truly is in the eye of the beholder.

While the majority of our clients are male, I am happy to say that we have several female customers and one of their major considerations tends to be – is this watch too big for their wrist?

Two of our best clients are ladies who wear watches that would generally be considered to have been designed for men. Neither lady is large, in fact one of them could be considered petite, so why don’t their men’s Rolex watches look ridiculous on their slender feminine wrists?

The answer lies not with the watch or indeed the wrist but rather in the mind of the ladies themselves.

Lady A has a polished and sophisticated style and her confidence makes you believe that anything that she wears must surely be right. If Lady A is wearing a Daytona with a dress and heels then surely anyone who questioned it’s suitability would merely be confessing to their own lack of sartorial understanding. In short, she wears a Daytona because she loves it and she carries a lot of confidence and style and that makes it highly appropriate.

The style of Lady B is different, and yet the same when it comes to her watches, because while her style is the epitome of relaxed nonchalance, she wears it and her watches with the confidence that she displays everywhere else in her life.

So there you have it; two ladies – one relaxed and nonchalant, the other poised and considered and yet both confident in their choice of watch and comfortable to carry off whatever look pleases them.

In Conclusion

To sum up ladies and gentlemen, the decision of whether or not a watch is too big for you is down to to you – if you feel self-conscious in a 40 mm Rolex Submariner then it’s going to look big on you.

Alternatively, if you feel confident and relaxed in a 47 mm Panarai 372 then that is exactly how you will come across.

So no, your wrist doesn’t necessarily look fat in that Bremont.

By Appointment

We have two collections, the original Oakleigh Watches Collection where you’ll find a range of high end pre-owned luxury brands and Alderleigh by Oakleigh Watches which offers quality used watches at a more affordable level.

If you would like to come and meet us and try on a selection of watches, we offer a bespoke and personal service by appointment only. Our offices are based at Michlmayr & Co Watch Makers in Norwich, Norfolk and all details can be found on our Contact Page.

5 Luxury Watch Alternatives

Posted on July 25, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

There are a few reasons we can think of why people might be looking at luxury watch alternatives. The most obvious is budget. If you don’t have the budget for the best, what is a good entry point into the world of luxury watches?

The second most popular reason is style. Maybe you don’t want to wear the same watch as everybody else. Amongst watch enthusiasts, the GMT Master ‘Pepsi’ is quite a common watch and deservedly so. However, for those with an individual flare, something a little bit different might be more suitable.

Whether it’s budget or style, you’ll be pleased to hear that there are alternatives. What you’ll find below, are what I consider to be genuine alternatives to five of the most popular luxury watches on the market today.

Please note the prices are ‘pre-owned’ not ‘retail’prices as that’s a whole other article!

Rolex Datejust – £6,000 ‘v’ Omega Aqua Terra – £2,000

Starting with the market leader in the gents luxury dress / daily business wear category for decades – the Rolex Datejust. The reason for this is because they are superb at what they do. A perfect size for an understated business or dress watch, the 36mm Rolex Datejust exudes good taste quality and style. And they have ‘Rolex’ written on the dial.

In the negative ledger, you can expect to pay around £6000 for a really nice one and you are likely to spot more than the odd one around on the wrists of colleagues and contacts. And maybe you don’t like that they have ‘Rolex’ written on the dial.

As an alternative, you could consider the 36mm Omega Aqua Terra. The Aqua Terra is a very high quality watch with some equally tasteful styling touches. The case and bracelet are beautifully made and with dials in white, black or blue among other colours. The whole thing quietly declares its class and style.

Compared to the Rolex Datejust, you’ll see very few around and the kicker is that the Omega Aqua Terra starts from about a third of the price. Leaving you spare money to buy more watches…

Rolex GMT Master 11 – £14,000 ‘v’ Tudor Black Bay GMT – £3,000

Probably the most famous watch design ever, the GMT Master ‘Pepsi’ is instantly recognisable with its blue and red bezel insert. It’s the choice of champions – “The Gentleman’s sports Rolex”. Magnum PI wore one. Fidel Castro wore one. I wear one.

Once again though, you might find that they are a bit too commonplace for you and of course the price has gone through the roof. You can’t buy any kind of decent Full Set for much under £14,000 these days.

Enter the Tudor Black Bay GMT. Introduced a few years ago, this watch succeeded immediately in bringing the blue and red pilots’ watch to a different audience.

Still very popular today, you might even find a new one and shouldn’t have to pay much over £3,000 for a minter.
Ok so they’re not as refined as the Rolex but they do offer similar styling on a much more affordable budget.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – £40,000 ‘v’ IWC Ingenieuer – £5,000

Designed by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original AP Royal Oak quickly became a design classic, much copied and much admired. These days a nice Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ (39mm) can easily set you back £40,000. Plus, they are of course pretty much impossible to buy from ADs.

Consider as an alternative the IWC Ingenieuer, one of the lesser known models from the classic International Watch Company. Made in relatively small numbers since 1955, the Ingenieur was originally designed with a Faraday cage inside for genuine engineers.

These days its angular styling, relative rarity and sheer quality make it a great alternative to the Royal Oak from around the £5,000 mark.

Rolex Daytona – £30,000 ‘v’ Omega Speedmaster – £5,000

When the Rolex Daytona was first made back in the mid 1960’s its most obvious rival has always been the Omega Speedmaster. Somehow however, almost immediately the Daytona began to pull ahead in the race for popularity and desirability. Even the incredible cache of being the First Watch On The Moon couldn’t help Omega to catch up.

Fast forward over a quarter of a century and the situation has escalated to proposterous levels for both vintage and new models of these close bedfellows. Let’s be honest here, there’s really no big difference in quality between the Speedmaster and the Daytona, and there never has been, and yet …..

The Daytona is impossible to buy in stores while the Speedmaster is often in the ADs window.

The Daytona retails around £10,000 while the Speedmaster is around £6,500
Pre-Owned a current model Daytona sells for up to £30,000 while a Speedmaster sells for around £5,000
An early 1970’s (non Paul Newman) Daytona will cost around £60,000 while a similar Speedmaster can be had for less than £10,000

This situation is beginning to correct itself with Speedmaster prices steadily on the rise but there’s still a LONG way to go. This makes the Speedmaster an excellent luxury watch alternative to the much hyped and high cost Daytona.

Patek Phillipe Calatrava – £25,000 ‘v’ Jaeger LeCoultre Master £7,000 – £10,000

Patek Phillipe is one of the best known and most coveted horological brands ever. The company’s classic strap line :

“You never really own a Patek Phillipe, you simply look after it for the next generation”

has been around since 1996 and sums up the brand perfectly. A Patek Phillipe really IS far more than just a watch.

All of this brings with it a high price, low deprecation rates and long waiting lists. Consequently, they’re very hard to get new and can be very pricey to buy pre-owned.

I’ll be honest, there can also be a bit of ‘them and us’ reverse snobbery in the watch world when it comes to PP.
The owner of a Platinum Calatrava or blue dialled Nautilus can sometimes be seen as a ‘level above’.

Now if I could afford a blue 5711 on my wrist I honestly wouldn’t care what anyone else thought. I would just be looking at it all day! But not everyone is like me, so what’s your alternative ?

Enter centuries old Grande Maison, Jaeger Le Coultre and their classic lines. Probably best known for their Art Deco Reverso models, they also do a very fine line in more traditional dress watches in the Patek Phillipe style.

At between £7,000 and £10,000, a pre-owned JLC Master has all the heritage, quality and class of a Patek Phillipe Calatrava but without the price ticket or occasional baggage. Well worth a look.

In Conclusion …

Of course a subject like this can’t really be tackled in a few paragraphs and for every one of us, the questions and considerations will be different.

However I hope that maybe this article has made you think a little. If you want to discuss any of the luxury watch alternatives that I’ve raised here, I would be delighted to hear from you.

We have two collections, the original Oakleigh Watches Collection where you’ll find a range of high end pre-owned luxury brands and Alderleigh by Oakleigh Watches.

Our Alderleigh collection launched last year giving us the opportunity to offer quality used watches at a more affordable level. We love the idea of helping people get their foot on the pre-owned luxury watch ladder. Plus, we get to welcome old stock back as customers trade up to the next level.

The right watch for the right occasion

Posted on July 25, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

If you’re sufficiently fortunate to have a choice of watches to wear, how on earth do you choose which is correct for a specific occasion?

Well that depends of course on the occasion. And on the watches that you have at your disposal. And sometimes on the weather. If you think I’m joking then you’re about to learn something about me …

So let’s assume that you have a few really nice watches to choose from – surely you just use whatever one was designed for the job in hand? Well that’s all good if you only wear your GMT Master when you’re flying your ‘plane, the Royal Oak when sailing the yacht and the Patek 5120G while eating Ferrero Rocher. No? We may need a different approach then.

Most people who have more than one watch like to have different styles for different jobs – I know a fortunate lady who switches between a stainless Datejust and a Cartier Panthere for work, wears a bi colour diamond dial DJ for special occasions and a Santos for going to the football …. Makes total sense to me.

I tend to make a choice based on what I’m wearing, and I suppose that’s what most people would do – that’s why you really ‘need’ a sports watch with your jeans, a dress watch with your best suit and something in between for when you’re doing something in between.

That’s where classic watches like the Rolex Explorer I and JLC Reverso come into play – dress them up or dress them down, they will accompany you to all of your less extreme activities and are great ‘go to’ watches

Having said that, we’re all allowed our little quirks and foibles and I have a really odd watch related one – if it’s cold and rainy outside and I’m in the mood for beer & pie type comfort, I ALWAYS wear my 1977 Rolex DRSD. It just makes me feel comfortable and warm – weird huh?

So what should you learn from this?

1) Whatever anyone tells you, there is no one watch that will cover all jobs appropriately.

2) Realistically, if you’re going to do this properly you need three watches *at least.

3) At the end of the day of course there are no rules to any of this and it’s totally, totally up to you.

4) And if I want to wear a DRSD with a dinner suit because there’s no steak and kidney pudding on the menu, then I will …

A Guide to Watch Winders

Posted on July 22, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

I have recently been asked by more than one customer to comment on the issue of wearing watches displaying the incorrect date and on the related issue of the use of watch winders. Winders today and dates next time I think.

Now a watch winder can be a wonderful thing, an electronic device running either on batteries or mains power, it will keep your automatic watch ticking while you’re not wearing it so that both time and date stay accurate.

The manufacturers of watch winders will tell you that they also provide the essential service of maintaining the movement and that this is better for your watch. I’ve never spoken to a watch maker who has told me of a broken automatic watch that “would have been ok if only it had been kept in a watch winder…” if you have then I would genuinely like to hear from you.

7 key considerations when buying a watch winder

1) Turns per day (TPD) – Many people are concerned to match the number of TPD specifically to the needs of their watch. I would suggest that unless you match your daily lifestyle to the TPD needs of your watch then you shouldn’t worry about this too much….

2) Direction of rotation – Now this could be an issue. Some automatic watches wind left, some right and some both ways. If you get a winder that winds both ways then you’re covered but before you buy a uni-directional one you should check that it’s right for your watch. Google or the manufacturer should be able to help.

3) Aesthetics – Clearly down to you this one – styles range from ‘board room’ to ‘control room’. Cheap ones can look a bit cheap and higher priced ones can look a bit over the top but it’s all personal taste so shop around.

4) Capacity – Off the peg winders start at one watch and generally go up to around eight or ten watches. Custom made ones can be as big as you want to go.

5) Power supply – Modern winders can be powered either by mains, batteries or both so bear in mind what power sources you will have available when you make your choice, and this depends on where you’re going to keep it. It’s also a good idea to listen to it working before you buy, especially if you’re going to keep it next to your bed. These things run 24 hours a day…

6) Size – This normally goes hand in hand with capacity and along with ‘Price’ is one of the two issues that vex me when it comes to winders. If you have one automatic watch that you wear all the time then you don’t need a winder. If you have one or two that you wear occasionally then you can buy a winder that will fit inside an average safe, keeping your watches wound AND secure. What about if you have four? Or six? Yes you can buy a winder that accommodates your entire collection but where do you put it once its fully loaded? Any box with four high-end automatic watches in it needs to be in a safe and not on your dressing table, but you’re going to need a substantial safe….

7) Price – Here’s the other delicate topic from my point of view – a single watch winder can be bought for as little as £50 and big ones can cost….well you can imagine. Or maybe you can’t. How about £10,000? Believable? Of course it is. How about £100,000…..? Unfathomable, but true!

Even with an off the peg winder, if you want one of the top brands to fully complement your top brand watches then you’re into thousands, and that’s nice watch money.
So a winder seems a great idea as long as it allows you to store your watches safely and, it seems to me, as long as it’s not competing for your money against your next watch.

I think I would rather have four watches that I have to set every day than three that I don’t….

As always, we value your comments.

Does it come with papers?

Posted on July 22, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

Here’s a question that we are asked almost daily in our interactions with potential customers, and an excellent question it is too. If you definitely want papers with your pre-owned watch then nothing else will do… But do you?

The crucial thing about watch papers is to decide why they are important to you because while they’re often a nice thing to have, they’re certainly not essential.

You will always pay considerably more for a watch with papers than one without and for all the time that you own the watch they will sit in a drawer giving you pleasure from the knowledge that they are there. I’ve owned dozens of Full Set watches over the years and I can honestly say that I’ve never taken any of the papers out of the safe just to look at them. Of course some people like papers because it makes the package ‘complete’ and they enjoy that element of ownership, which is absolutely reasonable.

Investment value

When it comes to your investment, you’ll find that when you sell the watch in the future it will be worth more than one without papers, but then it cost you more in the first place so there’s an element of swings and roundabouts here.

Authenticity

If you are interested in papers and accessories as a form of authenticity for a watch that you’re considering then these days I’m afraid that they don’t offer that certainty. There are plenty of fake watches out there with fake papers and also several with real papers too because the watch can be faked to match them.

Our advice would be that the best way to get peace of mind over the authenticity of your watch is to trust the person that you buy from. If you’re buying a watch and you’re really anxious about whether you may be buying a pup then walk away, this is all about you and you should feel comfortable at every stage of the process.

So, Papers. Nice to have but not essential. It’s really up to you.

For more advice – read our series of Expert Watch Guides.

Is that the Original…?

Posted on July 22, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

When buying a pre-owned luxury watch, it is not unusual to ask the question – “Is that the original Rolex X, Y or Z?”

Many people can be sticklers for originality. Why is this I wonder?

I suppose it’s because a watch that has had lots of parts replaced is a bit like ‘Trigger’s broom’ and perhaps that 1993 Submariner may not all be that old. Buying an original Rolex, with all the date corresponding parts, can be extremely important to many people.

So what gets changed over time? Why does it happen? And how important is it?

Let’s see shall we…?

The Dial

This is the most obvious and important component of any watch. When it comes to originality and this is the first place that you should look.

With a Rolex there are so many subtle differences, especially with the most collectable models, that it takes a specialist to be really confident of what they’re dealing with. It’s this and this alone which has led us to decline politely whenever we’ve been asked to source a Paul Newman Daytona for a client. It’s a minefield – one that’s certainly possible to cross safely but not a journey that I want to make myself.

At a more straightforward level, the dial of a Rolex can often be dated by the markings that relate to the type of luminous material used on the hour markers. Over the years Rolex watches have been marked with Radium, Tritium, Luminova and Super Luminova. The first two of which were dangerously radioactive to the poor devils who had to work with it.

By looking carefully at the markings at the bottom of the dial which relate to the type of material used – “Swiss”, “Swiss T – < 25”, “T Swiss T”, “Swiss Made” etc., we can tell if the dial is correct for the model and year of the watch.

Why would you change an Original Rolex dial?

There are a few reasons including personal preference (not common), water ingress damage (also uncommon) and the most likely which is deterioration of the existing dial through damp, light or failure.

Over a period of time, watch dials can fade unevenly. The ‘lume’ can detach and the overall finish can deteriorate, sometimes creating what’s known as a ‘spider dial’. Dials also sometimes change colour completely and turn ‘tropical’.

Any of these situations would cause Rolex to replace the dial at service. It is usually both obligatory and chargeable.

The watch would then have what’s known as a ‘service’ or ‘replacement’ dial. It’s a genuine Rolex dial but of a later period than the rest of the watch. There is nothing wrong with a watch like this, although it is worth slightly less than a completely original version.

A service dial is not to be confused with a ‘redial’ which is where the original dial, or sometimes a different dial completely, is repainted by somebody other than Rolex. These dials are considered fake and significantly reduce the value and desirability of the watch.

One measure that is often discussed when deciding if a dial is original is the brightness of the lume. Over time, the luminosity of both the dial and the hands will fade and decades later they should usually no longer glow.

However, the key words here are “should” and “usually”. This method is not infallible because for instance Rolex Submariner dials from the mid 1960’s are well known for retaining luminosity even after fifty years. Ah, the vagaries of the Vintage Rolex.

Hands

The next most important thing to look out for the originality of is the hands. As with the dial, these can sometimes corrode or lose their lume and consequently will be replaced at service or possibly have the lume re applied by a watchmaker.

The same luminosity rules apply as with the dial and a good way to check the originality of the hands is to see whether the lume has faded to the same colour as the dial. Again, far from infallible though because original hands and dials can easily have come from different factory batches and therefore fade at different rates and to different degrees. It is a mistake to think that every component of a vintage watch was originally made at the same time and therefore will age identically.

Generally speaking, non-original hands won’t make a massive difference to the value of the watch unless it is ultra rare and highly collectable but they do make a difference.

The Bezel Insert

On the majority of Rolex sports watches the bezel insert is made of relatively soft aluminium with a painted finish that can quite easily get scratched. Rolex will often change these at service or owners may have them changed through choice.

The originality of the insert isn’t nearly as important as the dial or the hands and if a period insert is required, replacements are readily available at a relatively modest cost.

The Crystal or Plexi

The originality of the crystal or plexiglass can sometimes be important but unfortunately is usually nigh on impossible to guarantee. As long as it is made of the correct material, is of the right profile and is an original Rolex product then any more is very difficult to ascertain.

It is sometimes possible to spot a non original Rolex plexi or crystal by touch and feel although the most obvious giveaway is that replacements sometimes have the wrong degree of magnification on the date ‘cyclops.’ A schoolboy error.

The Crown

Because the crown is regularly used to wind the watch and because it screws into the Oyster case, it is designed to be a service replaceable part. Consequently it is not unusual for any watch over 20 years old or so to have had a replacement crown. As long as it is genuine and of the right style, this is not a problem.

Internal Components

One of the main purposes of servicing a Rolex is to lubricate the internal components, replacing the Rolex original lubricants that dry out over time. A complicated mechanical movement containing dozens of parts is bound to need something replaced from time to time. So some degree of lack of originality is not at all problematic. It is also often impossible to detect without completely stripping the movement down.

The Bracelet, Strap or Buckle

Over time, any leather strap will deteriorate and so on a vintage watch it is likely to have been replaced. Whether it was replaced with an original Rolex strap is largely academic as Rolex don’t make their own straps and so we never advise anyone to get hung up on this as an issue.

Buckles are different because quite often they can be made of a precious metal and if lost, clearly will affect the value of the watch. Also, unlike straps, original buckles will have a specific visual style and replacement buckles can sometimes just look wrong.

Rolex bracelets have changed quite significantly over the years and having the correct type of bracelet i.e. Oyster, Heavy Oyster, Jubilee, President etc is important. Within each type, manufacturing processes have changed over the years and while there are no hard and fast rules for which process was used in precisely which year, there is a progression and fairly accurate guidelines. Consequently it is important to know whether your vintage Rolex bracelet should be riveted, folded or forged to match the age of the watch.

One very helpful factor is that Rolex bracelet clasps usually carry a stamp that can be used to date the bracelet. Bear in mind though that a 1972 watch doesn’t necessarily have to have a 1972 bracelet in order to be original and correct. It all depends on what was available when the watch was put together and for this 1972 watch a bracelet from 1970, ’71 or even ’73 could be perfectly original.

The Minefield

See, I told you it was tricky but hopefully you’ve at least found this article interesting and helpful in some way. You might find our article – Does this vintage watc have the correct box? – a useful read too!

As always, the best advice that I can ever give to anyone buying a luxury watch of any age or brand is that unless you are an expert, always buy from a reputable seller who you can trust.

We are proud of our 5 StarTrust Pilot rating, check our many happy customer reviews.

Be careful out there…

Has this watch been polished?

Posted on July 22, 2024September 11, 2024 by Card Holder Name

It’s funny how questions from our customers seem to go in cycles. “Has it got box and papers?” or “Is it a UK watch?” are both questions that we will get asked dozens of times over the course of a few months. Then they seem to fade away to be replaced by a different regular question.

Usually, these questions are pretty straightforward. However, the current most popular question of choice bears looking at a little more carefully. That question is….

“Has it ever been polished?”

Now there are those of you out there who are actually looking for a completely factory fresh, unpolished Rolex 5513 from 1968. You know that this watch will take you years to find and that you may never ever find or own it. You also know that if you do find it you could pay twice as much for it as you would for even the best polished examples out there.

I would suggest that for the other 98% of people reading this article a more appropriate question might be:

“Has it been badly polished or overpolished?”

The majority of luxury watches are made of either very shiny stainless steel or even worse, 18 carat gold. No matter how careful you are when wearing these watches, they pick up tiny little marks here and there. I’m not talking about big dings or dents, that’s damage which is usually caused by carelessness. I’m talking about little scratches and marks.

So if you’re online looking at pictures of a preowned watch which is shiny and 99% unmarked then you can be pretty sure that it has been polished. In short, just about every preowned watch that you are considering buying has been polished; and the thing is, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that whatsoever.

The thing that we all need to be careful of, that’s me too, is bad polishing. Whether done to deal with big marks that can’t be removed any other way or just through sheer carelessness and lack of skill, over polishing a watch will spoil it for ever and it’s effects are impossible to reverse.

Over Polishing – Spot the signs

The most common effect of over polishing is the general loss of sharp edges and crispness to the case and the first two photos above are of fairly extreme cases of watches that have had their definition polished away. This is usually because the watch has received a knock which can only be taken away by removing large amounts of the surrounding metal, bringing it down to the level of the dent and simultaneously losing the true shape of the case for ever.

The second, rarer and slightly more subtle effect (but once you’ve seen it, you can’t unsee it) comes from the application of too much pressure and associated heat during polishing. This can have an adverse effect on the lustre of stainless steel, not only changing the way that it shines but also its colour too.

If you look carefully at the lugs of the Submariner and Daytona in photos one and two you will see that they are soft and the Daytona has a colour and lustre to it that just isn’t right. Compare them to the last two photographs in the series and you will see that they are just too smooth and too shiny. It may be difficult to spot initially but as I said, once you’ve seen it, you can’t unsee it.

The last two photographs are of Rolex that we have sold recently. They are both world-class examples with crisp, sharp cases which have been worn carefully for years, never suffering any damage. They have also both been very skilfully and carefully polished to remove the tiny marks that are inevitable for even the most carefully worn watch.

In Conclusion

Unless you are a collector who is really looking for an unpolished example, can I recommend that you don’t get too hung up on whether a watch has been polished? Better to expect and accept that it has been and as long as it’s been done well, don’t worry about it.

You might be interested in our guide to polishing a pexi glass – it’s not as scary as it sounds!

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