Author: Card Holder Name

Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?

Posted on by Card Holder Name

“Can I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

This is a question that I am often asked by our clients. Of course what they are referring to is whether their watch is water resistant – will it leak and ruin the movement, dial and hands?

There are usually three areas that need to be considered when the water resistance of a watch is under examination;

  • the caseback
  • the glass
  • the crown

During testing, these three components are checked for condition and damage or corrosion. Next the seals fitted between the component and the case are inspected and often replaced. The watch is then pressure tested using a purpose built piece of equipment. When it passes – voila! Your watch is waterproof.

So yes, if it passes the test, you CAN go swimming in a luxury watch. But hang on, there’s another question that needs to be asked ……

“SHOULD I go swimming in a luxury watch?”

All the watches that we sell here at Oakleigh Watches are superb examples of their type and are all of course very valuable.

I can’t imagine a more hostile environment for a luxury watch than a beach with its salt and sand, or a swimming pool full of chlorine, steel and ceramic tiles. And that’s before you even mention the water! So our advice would be – “yes you can swim in a luxury watch but NO, you probably shouldn’t.”

If you’re at the pool or the beach – relax, forget about the time! Or, if you’re like me and feel a bit lost without something stylish on your wrist, switch your luxury time piece for a much more practical G-Shock!

Oakleigh Watches works alongside local Rolex and Omega service agents Michlmayr & Co. All of our luxury pre-owned watches are tested to ensure they are water resistant and comply to COSC spec. Some of our more vintage stock will not be water resistant and this will be made clear in the description.

 

 

The Tudor ‘Big Block’

Posted on by Card Holder Name

In 1970 Tudor entered the chronograph market with a watch that was very different from its Rolex Daytona brethren – The two incarnations of the ’Monte-Carlo’ were bold, bright and colourful and occupied their own place in the Rolex family lineup, as a slightly inferior model to the Daytona.

Then in 1976 there was a shift and the ‘Big Blocks’ were born. Far from establishing a point of difference from the Rolex Daytona by continuing with the ‘fun’ slightly ‘junior’ theme, Tudor made a watch that was similar to the Daytona and in one key way, actually superior….

As well as toning down the colour palette and producing monochrome chronographs (although exotic-dialed 9000-series ‘Big Block Monte Carlos’ were made), Tudor adopted the Valjoux 7750 movement, not only adding an extra chrono sub dial but also a quick set date and an automatic movement. This automatic movement made the Big Block the first self-winding chronographs from the Rolex group – it would take Rolex themselves well over ten years to make an automatic Daytona and 25 years to make one with an in house movement.

As well as an advanced set of features, the Valjoux movement brought with it the necessity for a deeper case than its predecessors to house the self-winding mechanism and rotor, hence the nickname “Big Block”.

The first Big Blocks were the 9400’s consisting of three references that gave the option of three different bezels:

  • 9420 with an acrylic tachymeter bezel
  • 9421 with a 12-hour calibrated rotating bezel
  • 9430 with a steel tachymeter bezel

In the late 1980’s, the 9400 series was replaced by the 79100 series of Big Blocks and again, there were three references with three bezel types:

  • 79160 with a black plastic tachymeter bezel
  • 79170 with a black graduated 12-hour rotating bezel;
  • 79180 with a steel tachymeter bezel.

By the mid 1990’s Montres TUDOR S.A. was 50 years old and they started to made decisive moves to differentiate themselves from their Rolex brothers. As a consequence the direct references to Rolex were steadily disappearing from the cases, winding crowns and bracelets of Tudor watches to be replaced with own brand alternatives and the day of the Big Block was over.

An important watch and often overlooked, the Big Blocks are one to watch that’s for sure

Understanding Watch Model & Serial Numbers

Posted on by Card Holder Name

Being able to read watch serial numbers can be an enormous help when buying a pre-owned luxury watch.

Something I get asked about a lot, mainly – what’s the difference between watch serial numbers and watch model numbers? Where do I find them? How do they date my watch? Usually as a precursor to – how much is my watch worth?

At the end of this article you will find Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts for Rolex & Omega.

Model Number ‘v’ Serial Number​

They are two totally different things.

The model number might also be called the ‘reference number’ or ‘style number.’

Unlike the serial numbers that are unique to a watch, model numbers are shared across watches. In the case of Rolex, the model number will tell you which particular collection a watch belongs to and helps identify materials used on a particular Rolex.

Watch Serial Number Check – Why It’s So Important

The watch serial number will tell you the estimated date of production of a watch and help trace authenticity. Therefore when it comes to estimating the value of your watch or buying a pre-owned luxury watch, the serial number is the most important of the two.

Whether you’re trying to value your watch or just interested in its history, it’s always good to check the watch serial number maches the paperwork. In the past, many official watch dealers have given the wrong paperwork with the watch, unaware of the later significance this would have when it comes to value. It’s not until the customer or a family member comes to sell the watch many years later, they realise the dramatic effect this can have on the value of the watch.

A quick watch serial number check can also reveal if it has been stolen, or to autheticate whether is is genuine or counterfeit. If a model was first released in the 1980’s but has a watch serial numbers dating it to the 1970’s, it is very likely a fake.

However, with technology as it is, it is very wasy to fake watch serial numbers and papers. It’s worth doing an internet search as counterfeiters tend to use the same number for whole batches of copies. These may have already been identified as fakes by other watch lovers who have done a watch serial number check and reported it.

For brands such as Omega and Rolex, the serial number is also a way to keep track of a watch. A register of a watch’s service history helps the manufacturer to identify returning problems or indicate parts that might need replacing based on the age of the watch.

What do Model & Serial Numbers look like? ​

This will vary between brands and for the purpose of this article, we’ve focused mainly on Omega & Rolex.

How do I find the Serial & Model Numbers?

If you have a Full Set, then the serial and model numbers will be on the paperwork – warranty card, certificate of authenticity, service records. If not, your next steps are ……

Rolex Model & Serial Numbers Check

Rolex is unique in that it etches the model and serial numbers between the watch lugs. You will need to remove the bracelet/strap to see it. The model number describes the materials used, the calibre and the type and colour of the bezel. It can be quickly used to find out whether it is an original Rolex or a fake by comparing it with data from trade publications and Rolex catalogues.

It’s easy to get the model number mixed up with the serial number on a Rolex. The model number is generally four, five or six digits long, whereas watch serial numbers can be up to eight digits long. The model number is engraved on the lugs at the 12 o’clock end.

Locating a Rolex Serial Number

If your Rolex was manufactured before 2007, the serial number will be located between the lugs at 6 o’clock (where the bracelet connects to the watch). Between 2008 -2010, Rolex decided to put the serial numbers on the 6 o’clock inner bezel (the thin band between the watch face and the outer casing – see above image)

To complicate things further, Rolex changed the way they produced serial numbers on three different occasions.

  • 1927-1987: Every Rolex had a 5-6 digit serial number depending on the year. The higher the number the more recent the Rolex.
  • 1987-2010: Rolex introduced a letter for each year which was followed by six digits. For example W00001 would have been the serial number for the first men’s Rolex watch made in 1984. For this brief period, the letter is the most important part, because it tells you approximately when your watch was made.
  • 2010: Rolex serial numbers were randomised to eight digit codes. Making it impossible to track and date watches purely on serial numbers. Adding to the increased value of a Full Set!

Keep scrolling for our ‘Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts’ at the bottom of this article.

Omega PIC & Serial Numbers

Omega use serial numbers and refer to their model number as PIC Numbers (Product Identification Code).

The PIC number is used to identify the model, materials, functions and features of each watch. This can be found on the accompanying paperwork. However, Omega has changed systems over the years.

  • PIC Pre 1962: Simple alphanumeric code of two letters followed by four digits.
  • PIC 1962-2007: They used a Mapics system, consisting of two letters followed by either six or seven numbers.
  • PIC 1988: this ran concurrently with Mapics and featured an arrangement of eight numbers in three groups
  • PIC Now: PIC14 structure, with 14 digits in six groups.

Luckily, Omega serial numbers are less complicated as they are issued more or less chronologically. Therefore they can be checked against a production chart to get an approximate date of a watch. See our ‘Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts’ at the bottom of this article.

In 1894, Omega started using serial numbers with 1,000,000. Every watch since, has been given a seven or eight digit number, following on sequentially until around 2019, when they hit 99,999,999. However, as always, there are a few exceptions, keep reading.

In 2019, Omega followed the same route as Rolex and started using randomised eight digit numbers, making it near impossible to work out the date of watches without the paperwork.

If your watch doesn’t have the paperwork, don’t despair – you can order an ‘Extract from the Archives’ directly from Omega. This document will also reveal things like which country the watch originated and is a paid service offered by most luxury watch manufacturers.

Locating an Omega Serial Number

Alternatively, you can locate the number on the watch itself. Depending on the age of the watch, the main areas to check are – the movement, inside of the case back, outside of case back and underside of the lugs. From 1990 onwards, Omega watch serial numbers started to be etched onto the lugs or case back.

Much older models might have it engraved on one of the internal movement bridges or elsewhere inside the case back. Again – don’t be tempted to remove the back yourself, ask an expert and avoid damaging your potentially very valuable vintage watch.

I mentioned earlier that there are a few exceptions.

Despite being a fastidious industry, mass production of watches led to movements sometimes being assembled much earlier than the rest of the watch. So a newer model could well have a lower serial number than an older one. This is an industry wide exception, not just Omega.

Omega has been known to vary the position of their serial numbers on the same model type. So not finding a number where you’d expect, doesn’t automatically mean it’s a fake. You will need to check the other main areas as detailed above.

Finally, and a bit of a mystery to all, the Omega Speedmaster range has its own numbering system, refer to the ‘Watch Serial Number Lookup Charts’ below for more information.

Other Luxury Watch Brands & Serial Numbers

They all vary, but as with Omega, the main areas to check are the movement, inside of the case back, outside of case back and underside of the lugs.

In Conclusion

Because of discrepancies in manufacturing, watch serial sumbers should only be used as an approximation. If in doubt – ask an expert – ask us!

Rolex Serial Numbers

Rolex Serial Number Year
20,000 – 40,000
1927 – 1937
40,000 – 200,000
1938 – 1942
200,000 – 300,000
1941 – 1944
300,000 – 500,000
1945 – 1946
500,000 – 620,000
1947 – 1948
620,000 – 700,000
1948 – 1950
700,000 – 725,000
1951
725,000 – 880,000
1952
880,000 – 999,000
1953
0 – 49,000
1954

In 1954, when Rolex reached 1 million serial numbers, they started again as follows.

Rolex Serial Number Year
0 – 49,000
1954
50,000 – 150,000
1955
150,000 – 250,000
1956
250,000 – 350,000
1957
350,000 – 450,000
1958
450,000 – 550,000
1959
550,000 – 650,000
1960
650,000 – 755,000
1961
755,000 – 865,000
1962
865,000 – 1,000,000
1963
1,000,000 – 1,105,000
1964
1,105,000 – 1,275,000
1965
1,275,000 – 1,485,000
1966
1,485,000 – 1,710,000
1967
1,710,000 – 1,945,000
1968
1,945,000 – 2,240,000
1969
2,240,000 – 2, 590,000
1970
2,590,000 – 2,890,000
1971
2,890,000 – 3,200,000
1972
3,200,000 – 3,570,000
1973
3,570,000 – 3,865,000
1974
3,865,000 – 4,115,000
1975
4,115,000 – 4,260,000
1976
5,000,000 – 5,085,000
1976
5,085,000 – 5,430,000
1977
5,430,000 – 5,865,000
1978
5,865,000 – 6,205,000
1979
6,205,000 – 6,560,000
1980
6,560,000 – 7,130,000
1981
7,130,000 – 7,600,000
1982
7,600,000 – 8,375,000
1983
8,375,000 – 8,785,000
1984
8,785,000 – 9,155,000
1985
9,155,000 – 9,860,000
1986
9,860,000 – 9,900,000
1987

When they reached their 10,000,000’th serial number in 1987, they switched to Letter Prefix Serials, starting with R and followed by a six digit number. Confusingly, these did not run alphabetically, or start on the 1st January each year. Rather, they started at different points within the year, once all the serials had been used.

Letter Prefix Year
R
1987 & 1988
L
1989
E
1990
X or N
1991
C
1992
S
1993 & 1994
W
1995
T
1996
U
1997 & 1998
A
1999
P or K
2000
K or Y
2001
Y
2002
F
2003, 2004 & 2005
D or Z
2006
M or Z
2007
M or V
2008
V
2009
G
2010

Omega Serial Numbers 1994 – 2008 (excluding Speedmasters)

Omega Serial Number Year
1,000,000 – 1,999,999
1894
2,000,000 – 2,999,999
1902
3,000,000 – 3,999,999
1906
4,000,000 – 4,999,999
1910
5,000,000 – 5,999,999
1915
6,000,000 – 6,999,999
1923
7,000,000 – 7,999,999
1925
8,000,000 – 8,999,999
1934
9,000,000 – 9,999,999
1939
10,000,000 – 10,999,999
1944
11,000,000 – 11,999,999
1947
12,000,000 – 12,999,999
1950
13,000,000 – 13,999,999
1952
14,000,000 – 14,999,999
1954
15,000,000 – 15,999,999
1956
16,000,000 – 16,999,999
1958
17,000,000 – 17,999,999
1959
18,000,000 – 18,999,999
1961
19,000,000 – 19,999,999
1962
20,000,000 – 20,999,999
1963
21,000,000 – 21,999,999
1964
22,000,000 – 22,999,999
1965
23,000,000 – 23,999,999
1966
24,000,000 – 24,999,999
1966
25,000,000 – 25,999,999
1967
26,000,000 – 26,999,999
1968
27,000,000 – 27,999,999
1968
28,000,000 – 28,999,999
1969
29,000,000 – 29,999,999
1969
30,000,000 – 30,999,999
1969
31,000,000 – 31,999,999
1969
32,000,000 – 32,999,999
1970
33,000,000 – 33,999,999
1971
34,000,000 – 34,999,999
1972
35,000,000 – 35,999,999
1972
36,000,000 – 36,999,999
1973
37,000,000 – 37,999,999
1973
38,000,000 – 38,999,999
1974
39,000,000 – 39,999,999
1975
40,000,000 – 40,999,999
1977
41,000,000 – 41,999,999
1978
42,000,000 – 42,999,999
1979
43,000,000 – 43,999,999
1979
44,000,000 – 44,999,999
1980
45,000,000 – 45,999,999
1982
46,000,000 – 46,999,999
1984
47,000,000 – 47,999,999
1984
48,000,000 – 48,999,999
1985
49,000,000 – 49,999,999
1986
50,000,000 – 50,999,999
1986
51,000,000 – 51,999,999
1989
52,000,000 – 52,999,999
NOT USED
53,000,000 – 53,999,999
1991
54,000,000 – 54,999,999
1993
55,000,000 – 55,999,999
1995
56,000,000 – 56,999,999
1998
57,000,000 – 57,999,999
1998
58,000,000 – 58,999,999
1998
59,000,000 – 59,999,999
1998
60,000,000 – 60,999,999
1999
61,000,000 – 61,999,999
2000
62,000,000 – 62,999,999
2000
63,000,000 – 63,999,999
2000
64,000,000 – 64,999,999
2000
65,000,000 – 65,999,999
2001
66,000,000 – 66,999,999
2002
67,000,000 – 67,999,999
2002
68,000,000 – 68,999,999
2003
69,000,000 – 69,999,999
2003
70,000,000 – 70,999,999
2004
71,000,000 – 71,999,999
2004
72,000,000 – 72,999,999
2005
73,000,000 – 73,999,999
2005
74,000,000 – 74,999,999
2005
75,000,000 – 75,999,999
2005
76,000,000 – 76,999,999
2005
77,000,000 – 77,999,999
2005
78,000,000 – 78,999,999
2006
79,000,000 – 79,999,999
2006
80,000,000 – 80,999,999
2006
81,000,000 – 81,999,999
2007
82,000,000 – 82,999,999
2007
83,000,000 – 83,999,999
2007
84,000,000 – 84,999,999
2008
After 2008, Omega moved into it’s contemporary era and serial number is hard to locate. To find a date for a model with a serial number greater than 85,000,000, we advise you contact Omega directly. In 2019, Omega like Rolex started to used randomised eight digit numbers, making it near impossible to date watches without papers.

Omega Speedmaster Serial Numbers
14,000,000 – 14,999,999
1957
15,000,000 – 15,999,999
1958
16,000,000 – 16,999,999
1958 & 1959
17,000,000 – 17,999,999
1960
18,000,000 – 18,999,999
1961
19,000,000 – 19,999,999
1962
20,000,000 – 20,999,999
1963
22,000,000 – 22,999,999
1964 & 1965
23,000,000 – 23,999,999
1966
24,000,000 – 24,999,999
1967
26,000,000 – 26,999,999
1968
27,000,000 – 27,999,999
1969
28,000,000 – 28,999,999
1970 & 1971
31,000,000 – 31,999,999
1972
32,000,000 – 32,999,999
1973
33,000,000 – 33,999,999
1975
34,000,000 – 34,999,999
1976
35,000,000 – 35,999,999
1977
37,000,000 – 37,999,999
1978
38,000,000 – 38,999,999
1979
40,000,000 – 40,999,999
1980
42,000,000 – 42,999,999
1981
43,000,000 – 43,999,999
1982
44,000,000 – 44,999,999
1983
45,000,000 – 45,999,999
1984
46,000,000 – 46,999,999
1985
47,000,000 – 47,999,999
1986 – 1989
48,000,000 – 48,999,999
1990 – 1999
49,000,000 – 76,999,999
NOT USED – NEW SYSTEM INTRODUCED
77,000,000 +
1999+

It’s important to remember that these watch serial number look up charts are not compiled by the manufacturers (sadly), rather they are pulled together by watch enthusiasts. Together with the aforementioned nod to manufacturing discrepencies, please treat these charts as a guide – they are not 100% accurate.

It goes without saying, if you’re interested in dating/selling your watch, simply get in touch with us at Oakleigh Watches, we’re always happy to help.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570

Posted on by Card Holder Name

Rolex have made several versions of the Explorer II since its launch fifty years ago but here we are mainly concerned with The Rolex Explorer II 16570. We will cover other references but this blog is designed to help you understand why you really should be considering a 16570.

When I first thought of writing this blog piece in the autumn of 2020, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 was one of the most overlooked and undervalued of all modern Rolex sports watches. A few months later I realised that the correction had already begun so I thought I had better get on with the piece

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 – 1971-1984

So firstly, let’s deal with this ‘Steve McQueen’ thing. The first incarnation of the Explorer II was the 1655 and at some time after its launch in 1971, it gained the nickname ‘Steve McQueen’. As no photo has ever come to light of ‘The King of Cool’ actually wearing a 1655 (he was a 5512 man), the reason why remains a mystery.

However, here are a few things that we do know about the 1655:

  • It was launched in 1971
  • It was designed mainly for cavers or ‘spelunkers’, hence the massive luminous GMT hand that told you not only the hour but splits of 2 1/2 minutes too, even in the dark.
  • Unlike the Submariners of the time, the Explorer II had a 39mm case.
  • Despite having the same movement as the GMT Master, a pattern that continued until 2011, the 1655 only told the time in one time zone. The ‘GMT’ hand was fixed with the hour hand so it told the same time, just REALLY clearly.
  • Its other nickname is ‘Freccione’ from the Italian word ‘Freccia’ meaning ‘arrow’.
  • Production was discontinued in 1984
  • There were five different dial variations over the 13 year production run
  • It was a popular watch in Germany and the USA but apart from that it was thought a bit of an ugly duckling and sales were disappointing (Great news for collectors and those who have had them from new….)

The Rolex Explorer II 16550 – 1984-1989The 16550 is what the watch world refers to as a ‘transitional model’ although to be honest, I’m not sure that the description really fits the bill. While it wasn’t made for very long in Rolex terms, it was made for almost five years so that’s not really a transition.

The thing that makes the 16550 particularly interesting is the dial – for the first time the Explorer II was available with the option of either a black or white dial and while the black dials were fine, the white ones were nearly always faulty. Instead of staying a lovely bright white as Rolex intended, most of them turned a creamy colour, giving them the nickname ‘Panna’ (Cream in Italian). A LOT of these have been replaced by Rolex with lovely shiny white ones, making the remaining cream ones highly collectible and valuable.

There are also some ‘Rail Dial’ examples out there – a Rail Dial is one where the words “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” line up perfectly with an even gap through the middle – like train tracks. These are rarer still and command a higher price.

The hands were changed from the ‘unusual’ design of the 1655 to the more ‘normal’ Mercedes style and this helped to create a look that was more acceptable to the masses.

Again using the GMT Master movement, this time the 3085 from the 16760, the 16550 now had an independent GMT hand so that it was a two time zone watch. The case was made from 316L steel as was the norm in the day and this makes it slightly less bright than the later models – the cases were also made slightly fatter than the later ones to accommodate the 3085 movement.

By the end of the 1990’s Rolex had a new movement and were working with improved 904L steel so they took the opportunity to fix the dial issues and launch a new model.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 – 1989-2011

This is where things get interesting and lead us to the purpose of the piece that I alluded to way up there in the introduction.

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a very similar watch to the 16550. It has a slightly slimmer case that’s made from a different type of steel and an improved movement but apart from that it’s basically the same watch but less than half the price and that’s a situation that’s unlikely to last for long.

16550s aren’t going to get any cheaper so when the price gap closes, and it will, it will happen through an increase in the price of the 16570.

So, there are four main types of 16570, all available with either a black or white dial:

  • 1989 to 1998 Tritium dial – expect to pay between £9,000 and £12,000. These are the early watches and prices have already risen alot recently – there’s lots more room yet though.
  • 1998 to 1999 Swiss only dial – expect to pay between £8,000 and £10,000. These are the rarest of all Explorer IIs and again, prices are rising sharply.
  • 1999 to 2007 Swiss made dial with 3185 movement – expect to pay between £8,500 and £10,000. These are the bulk of 16570s as production numbers were higher in the 2000s and they were made for eight years.
  • 2008 to 2009 Swiss made dial with 3186 movement – expect to pay between £10,000 and £12,000. These watches have the updated GMT movement and engraved rehaut and are sought after by those who like the most recent versions of things.

The Rolex Explorer II 216570 – 2011 to date.

Also available with both black and white dials like the 16550 and 16570, the 216570 is something of a fusion of old and new.

The 216570 still has the fixed bezel that Explorer IIs have always had and now they have brought back the oversized orange ‘GMT’ hand – so that’s the old. The new is that the GMT hand moves independently and the case size has been increased to 42mm in keeping with modern tastes.

This brings us to the statement made at the beginning of the piece about how the Explorer II 16570 is a classic, appreciating asset.

You see, the 1655 isn’t to everyone’s taste, it’s properly vintage and it’s priced well out of most people’s reach.

In January 2022, a nice 1655 Full Set will set you back something north of £20,000

In its original Panna form, a Full Set 16550 Rail Dial costs over £25,000 these days and even a nice Full Set Polar with a replacement dial can be £17,000 or so (admittedly, black ones are less) and prices are still rising.

Prices of the last 16570s made with the engraved rehaut and the 3186 movement have risen sharply too but the ‘standard’ 16570s, whether Tritium or Superluminova are still great value – it won’t last long though as these things have a way of correcting themselves so if you fancy one then my advice would be not to hang about….

To see the Rolex watches in our current collection click here and you can see the current range of new Rolex watches here.

“Does this vintage watch have the correct box?”

Posted on by Card Holder Name

This is a common question when two people are discussing the purchase of a collectible watch:

Q: “Does this vintage watch have the correct box or is that the correct box for the watch?”

The perhaps impolite but nevertheless accurate response should be :

A: “I’m afraid you’re not asking the correct question and the proper question here is – Could this be the correct box for the watch?”

Then …

The fundamental mistake that we make when considering the boxes and ephemera of vintage watches is to apply today’s quality service standards to watch companies of the 1950s, 60s and 70s.

Nowadays Rolex, Tudor, (TAG) Heuer et cetera are very efficient when it comes to helping their dealers to supply the correct boxes and ephemera with their watches. Unfortunately, forty plus years ago they really weren’t very good at all and would ship the watches separately from boxes, tags, manuals et cetera. This meant that it was the responsibility of the retailer to put the correct package together for the customer and guess what? They weren’t very good at it either.

Picture the scene: it’s January 1972 and a customer has walked into a watch shop to buy a Rolex Submariner – a significant purchase at £270. The jeweller has had this watch in stock for a year and because it took a year from manufacture to get to the jeweller, it’s actually a late 1969 watch.

When the long-haired, flared trouser bedecked salesman brought out the white and green box that was supplied with the watch, his customer was disappointed. He had seen the nice brown one with the seahorse on it in the window and asked if he could have one of those instead please? This man was spending £270 on a watch and the salesman needed to make him happy so of course, he did what the customer asked.

The last thing that the salesman was thinking was that in 40 years time, this watch would be worth £10,000 and having the correct box would matter – and to some, I mean really matter.

Now …

So let’s fast forward those 40 years to a time when a vintage Rolex enthusiast is ready to invest the price of a small car in owning his grail watch, a ‘Red’ Submariner – maybe even a birth year one.

The first question the customer is going to ask is “what year is this watch ” is it 1969 as the serial number suggests or a 1972 as the papers suggest?

The second question the purchaser will ask is are the boxes and ephemera correct? As we know the full story of this particular ‘Red’, you and I are confident that this Full Set is exactly as it was when it left the store. However, our potential purchaser’s eyebrows may have cause to raise.

Surely it can’t be right that a 1969 watch should come in a Seahorse box which wasn’t even released until two years later? But we know differently…

In Conclusion

The moral of this story is that not only is this area of watch purchase a minefield, but also that there are very few absolute certainties and many possibilities.

Some things are clearly impossible and not correct. A watch with a 1975 serial number and papers dated 1973 would be wrong, as would a 1975 watch on a 1985 bracelet, but generally speaking if the differential is up to 2 or 3 years either way with bracelets, papers and ephemera then it’s absolutely fine.

So next time you’re looking at a watch like this, rather than asking “does this vintage watch have the correct box?” ask could this be the correct box for the watch. It will help you appreciate and understand the many possibilities and it may stop you from passing up a fantastic opportunity for the wrong reason.

And finally …

Oh and one final thing, you need to trust the person that you’re buying from.

If you’re considering spending thousands of pounds on a vintage watch from someone who’s opinion and honesty you doubt, then you should really consider buying one elsewhere.

If you would like support or guidance on any of the issues raised in this article then please email us through the website. You might also find our blog – What do we mean by a Full Set, useful reading.

 

“Is this watch too big for my wrist?”

Posted on by Card Holder Name

As I go about my daily business, one question that quite often arises is “does my wrist look big in this watch?”

To be honest the question is more often “is this watch too big for my wrist?”

“Is it too big for me?”

It seems that, in an horological sense at least, both men and women are interested in whether size matters.

I’m very much of the opinion that with the exception of some things that are 50 mm plus, there’s really no such thing as a watch that is too big.

There are certainly some large watches out there that could be considered tasteless, but then there are few brands whose watches haven’t attracted and deserved that criticism at some point in their history, large or not.

Confidence & Courage

So if watches can’t be too big, and people can’t be considered ‘too small’, because that would just be wrong, then the beauty of a large timepiece truly is in the eye of the beholder.

While the majority of our clients are male, I am happy to say that we have several female customers and one of their major considerations tends to be – is this watch too big for their wrist?

Two of our best clients are ladies who wear watches that would generally be considered to have been designed for men. Neither lady is large, in fact one of them could be considered petite, so why don’t their men’s Rolex watches look ridiculous on their slender feminine wrists?

The answer lies not with the watch or indeed the wrist but rather in the mind of the ladies themselves.

Lady A has a polished and sophisticated style and her confidence makes you believe that anything that she wears must surely be right. If Lady A is wearing a Daytona with a dress and heels then surely anyone who questioned it’s suitability would merely be confessing to their own lack of sartorial understanding. In short, she wears a Daytona because she loves it and she carries a lot of confidence and style and that makes it highly appropriate.

The style of Lady B is different, and yet the same when it comes to her watches, because while her style is the epitome of relaxed nonchalance, she wears it and her watches with the confidence that she displays everywhere else in her life.

So there you have it; two ladies – one relaxed and nonchalant, the other poised and considered and yet both confident in their choice of watch and comfortable to carry off whatever look pleases them.

In Conclusion

To sum up ladies and gentlemen, the decision of whether or not a watch is too big for you is down to to you – if you feel self-conscious in a 40 mm Rolex Submariner then it’s going to look big on you.

Alternatively, if you feel confident and relaxed in a 47 mm Panarai 372 then that is exactly how you will come across.

So no, your wrist doesn’t necessarily look fat in that Bremont.

By Appointment

We have two collections, the original Oakleigh Watches Collection where you’ll find a range of high end pre-owned luxury brands and Alderleigh by Oakleigh Watches which offers quality used watches at a more affordable level.

If you would like to come and meet us and try on a selection of watches, we offer a bespoke and personal service by appointment only. Our offices are based at Michlmayr & Co Watch Makers in Norwich, Norfolk and all details can be found on our Contact Page.

 

 

5 Luxury Watch Alternatives

Posted on by Card Holder Name

There are a few reasons we can think of why people might be looking at luxury watch alternatives. The most obvious is budget. If you don’t have the budget for the best, what is a good entry point into the world of luxury watches?

The second most popular reason is style. Maybe you don’t want to wear the same watch as everybody else. Amongst watch enthusiasts, the GMT Master ‘Pepsi’ is quite a common watch and deservedly so. However, for those with an individual flare, something a little bit different might be more suitable.

Whether it’s budget or style, you’ll be pleased to hear that there are alternatives. What you’ll find below, are what I consider to be genuine alternatives to five of the most popular luxury watches on the market today.

Please note the prices are ‘pre-owned’ not ‘retail’prices as that’s a whole other article!

Rolex Datejust – £6,000 ‘v’ Omega Aqua Terra – £2,000

Starting with the market leader in the gents luxury dress / daily business wear category for decades – the Rolex Datejust. The reason for this is because they are superb at what they do. A perfect size for an understated business or dress watch, the 36mm Rolex Datejust exudes good taste quality and style. And they have ‘Rolex’ written on the dial.

In the negative ledger, you can expect to pay around £6000 for a really nice one and you are likely to spot more than the odd one around on the wrists of colleagues and contacts. And maybe you don’t like that they have ‘Rolex’ written on the dial.

As an alternative, you could consider the 36mm Omega Aqua Terra. The Aqua Terra is a very high quality watch with some equally tasteful styling touches. The case and bracelet are beautifully made and with dials in white, black or blue among other colours. The whole thing quietly declares its class and style.

Compared to the Rolex Datejust, you’ll see very few around and the kicker is that the Omega Aqua Terra starts from about a third of the price. Leaving you spare money to buy more watches…

Rolex GMT Master 11 – £14,000 ‘v’ Tudor Black Bay GMT – £3,000

Probably the most famous watch design ever, the GMT Master ‘Pepsi’ is instantly recognisable with its blue and red bezel insert. It’s the choice of champions – “The Gentleman’s sports Rolex”. Magnum PI wore one. Fidel Castro wore one. I wear one.

Once again though, you might find that they are a bit too commonplace for you and of course the price has gone through the roof. You can’t buy any kind of decent Full Set for much under £14,000 these days.

Enter the Tudor Black Bay GMT. Introduced a few years ago, this watch succeeded immediately in bringing the blue and red pilots’ watch to a different audience.

Still very popular today, you might even find a new one and shouldn’t have to pay much over £3,000 for a minter.
Ok so they’re not as refined as the Rolex but they do offer similar styling on a much more affordable budget.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – £40,000 ‘v’ IWC Ingenieuer – £5,000

Designed by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original AP Royal Oak quickly became a design classic, much copied and much admired. These days a nice Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ (39mm) can easily set you back £40,000. Plus, they are of course pretty much impossible to buy from ADs.

Consider as an alternative the IWC Ingenieuer, one of the lesser known models from the classic International Watch Company. Made in relatively small numbers since 1955, the Ingenieur was originally designed with a Faraday cage inside for genuine engineers.

These days its angular styling, relative rarity and sheer quality make it a great alternative to the Royal Oak from around the £5,000 mark.

Rolex Daytona – £30,000 ‘v’ Omega Speedmaster – £5,000

When the Rolex Daytona was first made back in the mid 1960’s its most obvious rival has always been the Omega Speedmaster. Somehow however, almost immediately the Daytona began to pull ahead in the race for popularity and desirability. Even the incredible cache of being the First Watch On The Moon couldn’t help Omega to catch up.

Fast forward over a quarter of a century and the situation has escalated to proposterous levels for both vintage and new models of these close bedfellows. Let’s be honest here, there’s really no big difference in quality between the Speedmaster and the Daytona, and there never has been, and yet …..

The Daytona is impossible to buy in stores while the Speedmaster is often in the ADs window.

  • The Daytona retails around £10,000 while the Speedmaster is around £6,500
  • Pre-Owned a current model Daytona sells for up to £30,000 while a Speedmaster sells for around £5,000
  • An early 1970’s (non Paul Newman) Daytona will cost around £60,000 while a similar Speedmaster can be had for less than £10,000

This situation is beginning to correct itself with Speedmaster prices steadily on the rise but there’s still a LONG way to go. This makes the Speedmaster an excellent luxury watch alternative to the much hyped and high cost Daytona.

Patek Phillipe Calatrava – £25,000 ‘v’ Jaeger LeCoultre Master £7,000 – £10,000

Patek Phillipe is one of the best known and most coveted horological brands ever. The company’s classic strap line :

“You never really own a Patek Phillipe, you simply look after it for the next generation”

has been around since 1996 and sums up the brand perfectly. A Patek Phillipe really IS far more than just a watch.

All of this brings with it a high price, low deprecation rates and long waiting lists. Consequently, they’re very hard to get new and can be very pricey to buy pre-owned.

I’ll be honest, there can also be a bit of ‘them and us’ reverse snobbery in the watch world when it comes to PP.
The owner of a Platinum Calatrava or blue dialled Nautilus can sometimes be seen as a ‘level above’.

Now if I could afford a blue 5711 on my wrist I honestly wouldn’t care what anyone else thought. I would just be looking at it all day! But not everyone is like me, so what’s your alternative ?

Enter centuries old Grande Maison, Jaeger Le Coultre and their classic lines. Probably best known for their Art Deco Reverso models, they also do a very fine line in more traditional dress watches in the Patek Phillipe style.

At between £7,000 and £10,000, a pre-owned JLC Master has all the heritage, quality and class of a Patek Phillipe Calatrava but without the price ticket or occasional baggage. Well worth a look.

In Conclusion …

Of course a subject like this can’t really be tackled in a few paragraphs and for every one of us, the questions and considerations will be different.

However I hope that maybe this article has made you think a little. If you want to discuss any of the luxury watch alternatives that I’ve raised here, I would be delighted to hear from you.

We have two collections, the original Oakleigh Watches Collection where you’ll find a range of high end pre-owned luxury brands and Alderleigh by Oakleigh Watches.

Our Alderleigh collection launched last year giving us the opportunity to offer quality used watches at a more affordable level. We love the idea of helping people get their foot on the pre-owned luxury watch ladder. Plus, we get to welcome old stock back as customers trade up to the next level.

 

 

 

Rolex Milgauss RIP 1954 – 2023

Posted on by Card Holder Name

Where it all began ….

As we say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss for good, we thought we’d take a look at the history of this impressive timepiece, that was so much more than just a watch.

Invented in 1954, the Milgauss was the solution to a fundamental issue for scientists at CERN – the European organisation for Nuclear Research.

In the early 1950’s, when the Large Hadron Collider wasn’t even a twinkle in its founders’ eyes, the scientists at CERN in Meyrin, Switzerland found that they had something of a problem. It was many years before the invention of the quartz movement so all of the scientists wore mechanical wrist watches. The accuracy of their watches was of paramount importance, because of the degrees of technical precision that they were working to every day. The problem that they experienced was that the massive magnetic fields that they were working in wreaked havoc with their all-important timepieces.

As some of you may have discovered with your own mechanical wrist watches, they do not like magnetism, and exposure to any magnetic field at all can make them run erratically or even stop altogether.

So, in 1954 the clever chaps at CERN approached their neighbours at Rolex in Geneva to fix the problem, which they duly did.

Magnetism & Milgauss

There are many compounds in the world that are not susceptible to magnetism, but one of the most effective is soft iron. Since 1836 scientists had been protecting delicate instrumentation from magnetism in a soft iron box called a Faraday Cage and so that is exactly what Rolex did with an automatic watch movement.

In 1954, Rolex built a tiny Faraday Cage and encased their 1065 automatic movement in it, (adding the subscript “M”) and creating the first Rolex Milgauss – reference 6543. The name ‘Milgauss’ derives from the Latin ‘Mille Gauss’ – ‘Mille’ meaning 1000 and ‘Gauss’ being the measurement of the strength of a magnetic field. So while automatic watch movements can be adversely affected by magnetic fields as low as 50 Gauss, Rolex’ new creation protected them from magnetic fields up to 1000 Gauss strong.

1954 – 1961: The Rolex Milgauss Exploration Years

 

After only two years the 6543 was replaced in 1956 by the updated reference 6541 – why they went backwards with the reference numbers rather than forwards is anybody’s guess. The 6541 had the newer 1066M movement along with other styling improvements. The 6541 was a classic piece of 1950’s styling, borrowing heavily from different influences of the day.

The dial featured a waffle texture which was popular on the dress watches of such brands as Omega and Rolex in the 1940’s and 50’s. The rotating bezel had an insert made of aluminium featuring a red triangle at 12 o’clock, borrowed from the styling of Rolex’ own Submariners, first released only two years before. It was the seconds hand however that tapped most heavily into popular culture. The 1950’s was a time of exploration, development and comic book adventure, and the lightning bolt shape of the Milgauss’ seconds hand was a nod to this while being particularly relevant to the work of the scientists at CERN.

The 6541 was undeniably a masterpiece of technical development and 1950’s design and this has subsequently been recognised. In 2023, an original early example of a 6541 would be valued in excess of £200,000.

However, in the 1950’s, its 37 mm case was considered by many to be too large and the styling too ‘industrial’ and so retail sales were relatively poor, even though the similarly sized Submariner was more of a success.

After a production run of seven years covering both references, the original design Milgauss was discontinued in 1961, to be replaced by the much more understated reference 1019.

1961 – 1986: Rolex Milgauss Lightning Strikes

 

The Rolex Milgauss 1019 featured either a plain black or aluminium dial, later a white option was added, and a fixed, smooth steel bezel. The iconic lightning bolt seconds hand was also replaced in favour of a more elegant, slim straight design.

While the 1019 Milgauss remained in production in various formats for 25 years, it was never a particularly popular watch with retail customers. At the end of the 1960’s and early 1970’s, demand was so low, that orders were saved up, and the watches were produced when sufficient numbers were reached. This is why you will see 1019 Milgauss’ from 1968 and 1970, but not from 1967 or 1969 as there just wasn’t sufficient demand to make them in those years.

Of course as is always the case with Rolex watches, a lack of popularity when new causes low production numbers and even lower numbers of exceptional examples 50 years down the line. This makes a great early 1019 genuinely scarce and therefore valuable with 1960’s Full Set prices in excess of £35,000.

In 1986, Rolex called it a day and the Milgauss was dropped from their catalogue forever.

2007: Rolex Milgauss Re-invention (again)

 

Or so it seemed until 2007 when the company was looking for a new and exciting way to rejuvenate their catalogue with a hint towards their expansive history.

The new Rolex Milgauss reference 16400 was a spectacular watch with a 40mm stainless steel case, fixed, smooth stainless steel bezel and dials in either black or white with orange accents. The 116400 also saw the revival of the lightning seconds hand from the 6541, this time in a bright orange colour. The pièce de résistance of the range was the Anniversary model 116400 GV which featured a black dial with a green tinted sapphire crystal (The ‘GV’ stood for ‘Glace Verte’).

The 116400 GV was immediately successful and quickly became the favourite watch of Daniel Craig, at the time the new James Bond, which undoubtedly did no harm whatsoever for the popularity of the model.

After only six years, Rolex discontinued the black dialled version of the Milgauss. A year later in 2014, it was replaced by a blue dialled version with the green sapphire crystal, the 116400 GVZ.

For two years there were three models in the Rolex Milgauss range; the white, the GV and the GVZ, but in 2016, the white was discontinued, leaving only the green glass versions in the lineup.

2023 – RIP Rolex Milgauss

This brings us to March 27, 2023, the saddest day for Rolex Milgauss lovers since 1986. This was the day that Rolex announced the discontinuation of the 116400 GV and the 116400 GVZ , erasing the Milgauss from the Rolex catalogue completely.

So what does that mean for the availability and value of the 116400 models?

Usually when Rolex discontinue a watch completely, it has an immediate and positive effect on both demand and price and in this, the Milgauss is no exception.

What’s Next

As I write, in the week since the model was cancelled, the availability of truly excellent examples here in the UK has fallen by almost 50% and prices have risen by around 10%.

Even after the recent price rise you can still buy an exceptional example of any of the four discontinued Milgauss models for less than £11,500. For a discontinued 40mm stainless steel sports Rolex Full Set in outstanding condition, this represents superb value.

As regular readers will know, I’m a great believer in the power of supply and demand and with this watch the supply is now fixed as they have made all of the 116400s that they will ever make.

Truly outstanding examples make up a fairly small proportion of these, and as demand continues to rise and supply is fixed, if not falling, that leaves only one direction for the price to go. Up.
April 2023 is a great time to buy an excellent example of this beautiful Rolex sports watch before prices rise further.

Luckily for Oakleigh Watches readers, we just happen to have outstanding Full Set examples of all four variants in stock.

Check the Collection Pages regularly for new listings or email me direct for more details.

 

 

The right watch for the right occasion

Posted on by Card Holder Name

If you’re sufficiently fortunate to have a choice of watches to wear, how on earth do you choose which is correct for a specific occasion?

Well that depends of course on the occasion. And on the watches that you have at your disposal. And sometimes on the weather. If you think I’m joking then you’re about to learn something about me …

So let’s assume that you have a few really nice watches to choose from – surely you just use whatever one was designed for the job in hand? Well that’s all good if you only wear your GMT Master when you’re flying your ‘plane, the Royal Oak when sailing the yacht and the Patek 5120G while eating Ferrero Rocher. No? We may need a different approach then.

Most people who have more than one watch like to have different styles for different jobs – I know a fortunate lady who switches between a stainless Datejust and a Cartier Panthere for work, wears a bi colour diamond dial DJ for special occasions and a Santos for going to the football …. Makes total sense to me.

I tend to make a choice based on what I’m wearing, and I suppose that’s what most people would do – that’s why you really ‘need’ a sports watch with your jeans, a dress watch with your best suit and something in between for when you’re doing something in between.

That’s where classic watches like the Rolex Explorer I and JLC Reverso come into play – dress them up or dress them down, they will accompany you to all of your less extreme activities and are great ‘go to’ watches

Having said that, we’re all allowed our little quirks and foibles and I have a really odd watch related one – if it’s cold and rainy outside and I’m in the mood for beer & pie type comfort, I ALWAYS wear my 1977 Rolex DRSD. It just makes me feel comfortable and warm – weird huh?

So what should you learn from this?

1) Whatever anyone tells you, there is no one watch that will cover all jobs appropriately.

2) Realistically, if you’re going to do this properly you need three watches *at least.

3) At the end of the day of course there are no rules to any of this and it’s totally, totally up to you.

4) And if I want to wear a DRSD with a dinner suit because there’s no steak and kidney pudding on the menu, then I will …

A Guide to Watch Winders

Posted on by Card Holder Name

I have recently been asked by more than one customer to comment on the issue of wearing watches displaying the incorrect date and on the related issue of the use of watch winders. Winders today and dates next time I think.

Now a watch winder can be a wonderful thing, an electronic device running either on batteries or mains power, it will keep your automatic watch ticking while you’re not wearing it so that both time and date stay accurate.

The manufacturers of watch winders will tell you that they also provide the essential service of maintaining the movement and that this is better for your watch. I’ve never spoken to a watch maker who has told me of a broken automatic watch that “would have been ok if only it had been kept in a watch winder…” if you have then I would genuinely like to hear from you.

7 key considerations when buying a watch winder

1) Turns per day (TPD) – Many people are concerned to match the number of TPD specifically to the needs of their watch. I would suggest that unless you match your daily lifestyle to the TPD needs of your watch then you shouldn’t worry about this too much….

2) Direction of rotation – Now this could be an issue. Some automatic watches wind left, some right and some both ways. If you get a winder that winds both ways then you’re covered but before you buy a uni-directional one you should check that it’s right for your watch. Google or the manufacturer should be able to help.

3) Aesthetics – Clearly down to you this one – styles range from ‘board room’ to ‘control room’. Cheap ones can look a bit cheap and higher priced ones can look a bit over the top but it’s all personal taste so shop around.

4) Capacity – Off the peg winders start at one watch and generally go up to around eight or ten watches. Custom made ones can be as big as you want to go.

5) Power supply – Modern winders can be powered either by mains, batteries or both so bear in mind what power sources you will have available when you make your choice, and this depends on where you’re going to keep it. It’s also a good idea to listen to it working before you buy, especially if you’re going to keep it next to your bed. These things run 24 hours a day…

6) Size – This normally goes hand in hand with capacity and along with ‘Price’ is one of the two issues that vex me when it comes to winders. If you have one automatic watch that you wear all the time then you don’t need a winder. If you have one or two that you wear occasionally then you can buy a winder that will fit inside an average safe, keeping your watches wound AND secure. What about if you have four? Or six? Yes you can buy a winder that accommodates your entire collection but where do you put it once its fully loaded? Any box with four high-end automatic watches in it needs to be in a safe and not on your dressing table, but you’re going to need a substantial safe….

7) Price – Here’s the other delicate topic from my point of view – a single watch winder can be bought for as little as £50 and big ones can cost….well you can imagine. Or maybe you can’t. How about £10,000? Believable? Of course it is. How about £100,000…..? Unfathomable, but true!

Even with an off the peg winder, if you want one of the top brands to fully complement your top brand watches then you’re into thousands, and that’s nice watch money.
So a winder seems a great idea as long as it allows you to store your watches safely and, it seems to me, as long as it’s not competing for your money against your next watch.

I think I would rather have four watches that I have to set every day than three that I don’t….

As always, we value your comments.